F-250 S.D. shift on fly 4x4

Does anyone know where there is tech info, schematics, etc. available on this system?  My 2000 S.D. refused to unlock from 4x4, despite lots of backing.  I managed to get it to unlock by manually rotating the hub locks several times, so I probably need to clean and re-grease the hubs.  However, now the 4x4 indicator light stays on all the time, and I am concerned this may mean the electrically actuated switch in the transfer case is energized, and the case is locked in.  Also, the "low" range indicator light does not come on at all.   Does anyone else have experience with this?  Any assistance is greatly appreciated.  

Is that manually shifted or electronically shifted? I have a 2000 K3500 that uses a BorgWarner 4401 and while it has a shifter lever the front axle "dog" clutch is engaged with a electro magnetic clutch and gear range shifted manually. It has been okay so far but I was not please to find out after I bought it that was how it functioned.  

Snoman,

Thanks for responding.  It is an electronically activated system.  There is no shift lever, only a rotary switch on the dash.  Any Ideas?

You need to check the actuator then. Does it behave the same in high or low range?  

It doesn't seem to go into low range at all, and the low range light does not light up even when the switch is set to low.  

Are the actuators for shifting the xfer case external (can you see them under truck) or are they all internal?  If it is internal, you may have to pull unit to find problem if wiring checks out which really kinda sucks.  

Hello the way front hubs on your 4x4 operate off of vaccum there is a pulsed vacccum sent to each hub engauge the hubs drive the vehicle then disengauge the hubs jack up one wheel at a time spin the wheel if the wheel will not spin the front hubs are still locked in check each wheel if  one is locked in and the other is not then the hub that is still locked is the one with the problem. Also ford has SSM out about front hubs not disengauging visit your local ford dealership and ask them about this they may need your VIN to run OASIS.              The other problem about the four wheel drive light not comming off it is a switch that is mounted on the transfer case that has a two wire connector what happens is the switch has a ball that  when the T-case is shifted moves in three positions what happens is the ball gets stuck in one position and the light stays on all the time

If this is true, this sucks. My automatic hubs on my 89 Burb are "driven" by axle shaft torque/motion. Theyn have been trouble free for 15 years now.  

15 years on those auto hubs? i guess if you don't use the 4 wheel drive they will last forever eh?  

Thanks Tech.  I'll check it out, and post results.  

No if you do not abuse them (the auto hubs) with greatly oversized tires and check them for lub from time to time they will last a very long time.  

With big tires and 10 bolts auto hubs could be beneficial.  You could use them like hub fuses possibly saving your axles.  Everybody knows an auto hub will break before anything else.  I learned that trick from another old timer.  If you do break one another one is waiting for you at a junkyard.  Nobody wants 'em so they should be cheap.

i was making a joke. i had a 90 1/2 ton burb on 32s and those auto hubs lasted longer than the rear 10 bolt and the 700r4.  

My 89 burb that I have had since new has 170k on it and original auto hubs and thought they are not used much anymore, they worked flawlessly in past years at temps as low as minus 40. My 10 bolt is getting a bit noisy too and it has had regular servicing too. I am undecided whether I am going to rebuilt it and track down a 9.5 to bolt it though I am leaning toward the later.

I know you were joking.  But seriously, why not use autohubs like hub fuses?