chevy 1/2 ton axle problems?

Hi everyone, 

I have a 96 chevy 1/2 ton with a 10 bolt (barf) rear axle.  Ive already put 1500 into it because my dad didnt want to go find a 3/4 or 1 ton axle that "he didnt know what had happened to it".  now,  ive bent another axle shaft,  the left seal leaks,  and its now an open diff,  when it was originally at least a gov'lock. 

what is the cheapest way to beef up my rear axle,  like new shafts,  full floater kits,  and lockers? my buddy,  who has a shop,  keeps telling me to bring it over with a new seal and gasket,  and we will weld up the diff,  and as long as i take it easy on it (yeah right),  it will be fine.

I already have 32 inch cooper st's,  i think this is too much tire for a 10 bolt. 

also,  how hard would it be to swap in a 1 ton FRONT axle and shafts? my cv shafts are going on my front axle too,  and im sick of listening to them.

thanks in advance to any replies,  against the lincoln locker or otherwise.

don't put a dime into that 10 bolt. go find a 14 bolt semi float axle from a 88-98 gm 1500hd or ld 2500[ the 2500 will still have 6 lug wheels] the cover on the back of it is big and looks like someone put it on crooked. make sure it has the same gear ratio. it bolts right in. don't worry about the front c.v.s because the 1 ton ones don't fit and aren't really any  stronger. it sounds like you run this thing pretty hard, so if you continue to break parts you might consider getting a different truck. like an older chev one ton with a straight axle.  and welding the diff is really going to shorten that 10 bolts life.  

i second that reply.  ditch that ten bolt and go with the 14 semi float so you can retain your 6 lug pattern.  32's are not too big for the ten bolt.  just take it a little easier on the trail.  when i was new to the sport i tough going fast and pounding over obstacles was the way to get through them.  well that cant be farther from the truth.

you might want to consider do a solid axle swap if you really beat the hell out of it.  its pretty easy and i thought it was easier than doing an IFS lift.  look into it.

how much for a 6 lug 14 bolt rear end? i live in michigan,  and all the junkyards ive called want like 6 or 8 hundred for a 14 bolt.

how long is the install time on a straight axle swap,  and how much cutting and welding is required? my ball joints are quickly dying,  and if this wont cost much more,  i might just do that instead.

thats not too far off on the price for that 14 bolt.   the straight axle swap will take some time depending on the skills of the installer. the price should be somewhere between $1000 and $1500 depending on the front axle and brand of conversion kit. but this is about the same price as an ifs lift.       if you do the sraight axle swap you might consider a full float 10.5" 14 bolt rear axle and a 8 lug dana 44 or 60 front from an older ford.  you would need different wheels and tires then too.