|
|
Item Posts
Sort Order
|
|
|
Problems with my taco
|
boogs4x
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 07/05
Posted: 07/30/05 12:38 PM
|
|
Hello everyone. Its my first time in this forum and happy to be here. I need some help please from those who may have had the same problem or may have knowledge of the situation.
I own a 2004 Toyota Tacoma V6 3.4L double cab prerunner (2wd, Sorry). The truck has a 2.5" Donahoe coil over lift (front) and a 3" deaver leaf pack (rear), also a 3" body lift from perfomance acc. I am running 305/70/17 goodyear MT/R on Pro comp Extreme alloy rims.Engine mods are simple, A K&N air intake system and a airaid throttle body spacer(1").
Problem=
After all changes were made I took the truck for its first long drive at about 440 miles. What I expierianced were, Loss of fuel efficiency (expected with larger tires) the truck constantly shifts gears(it is an automatic) and WILL NOT climb hills (on the freeway) very well at all.
Possible resolutions Ive thought about =
A TRD Supercharger, TRD cat back Exhaust, reprogramming the computer to change tire size, or possibly removing one if not both the throttle body spacer and K&N air intake system and puy it back to stock.
Help = Does anyone have Ideas that would be cost effective and of great help?
Thanks for your help in advance.
|
|
|
|
SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5783
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 07/30/05 05:49 PM
|
|
The very first thing you need to to is to REGEAR THE TRUCK!!! You could supercharge it but you are just increasing strain on engine and tranny with bigger rubber and stock gears. Incorrect gearing is the single biggest mistake that people make with lifted trucks period. Deeper gears not only increases power to ground to offset bigger tires, they also put engine back into its more efficent RPM operating range as well which supercharging and different exhaust will not do. It willrun better overall and last longer and use less fuel too than supercharging it with current gearing and tires.
|
|
|
|
quyonmob
Enthusiast
| Posts: 438
| Joined: 08/03
Posted: 07/31/05 08:45 AM
|
|
This is a cheap solution with a 2wd pre-runner style truck too! You've only got one ring and pinion to change, and the rear is way less time consuming than the front of an IFS truck. Re-gearing will also cost about 1/8th of a super charger!
|
|
|
|
|
|
SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5783
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 07/31/05 02:13 PM
|
|
Some IFS trucks are not to bad though, you may have to remove housing from truck but atleast you do not have to tear down hubs and pull axle shaft like in a solid front axle and you can work on the gears on your bench too.
|
|
|
|
boogs4x
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 07/05
Posted: 07/31/05 03:18 PM
|
|
snoman Thanks for the advice I will definately consider those options, but b4 I do I need to know how 2 figure out which gears I need and if its a do it yourself project.(the truck is still under factory warranty) also what it will cost.
Any suggestions on gearing? I want it to stay as close to stock as possible. If I can.
Thanks for the help!
Edited 7/31/2005 3:19 pm by boogs4x
|
|
|
|
SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5783
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 07/31/05 04:32 PM
|
|
Figure out what you have now back there ratio wise and then calculate the difference between stock tires and current ones and adjust rear axle ratio to get about same over all effective ratio back to the same but I would add a little to and have a deeper effective ratio because bigger tires have more drag rolling and wind drag from lift and tires too. So in a nutshell you want to be about one step deeper than your calculations suggest. Do this and it will be fun to drive again. Gear are less than 200 on line and labor could be 200 to 400 bucks to install them. THis will not void warranty otherwise because you are actually voiding it now on drive train and new gearing will place you back close to stock effective gear ratio and strain on drive train.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|