hello all i need front  need rear end help. i have a 1/2 ton chevy. should i go to a 3/4 ton or a gm 14 bolt rear and a dana 60 front. i what to run like 39s or higher on this truck. what lift and gear ratio would i need to run with this. i would like to go with the dana 60 and the 14 bolt but i cant find them.  and if anyone know how to run a snorkle  with a carb and  how should it hook up to the carb. Please help me. think u for you time.  plz if u have any ideas for any of this plz help

Personally I'd use a GM Dana 60 up front and a Corporate 14 bolt in back.  Make sure you get the full floater as it has a bigger ring gear and heavier axles.  I've never broke one.  38-40's I'd use at least a 4.88 gear.  40's on up at least a 5.13.  Look for the D60 on 1 ton GM's.  Dually axles require different hubs and rotors for obvious reasons.  You can find the 14 bolt on any 3/4 ton or 1 ton pickup, but the full floaters are more prevalant on the earlier models.  DON'T GET THE SEMI-FLOATER 14 BOLT!  You'd just as well stick with your 10 or 12 bolt.  www.boyceequipment.com or www.chuckstrucks.net if you can't find 'em in a junkyard.  Be prepared to spend some coin.  As far as the snorkel.  Get a carb hat like they use on carburated vortech supercharged cars and some PVC. 

I agree with most of this except I would say 5.13 for 38's and   and 5.38 or deeper for 40's. Also, the semi-float 14 bolt 9.5inch is not a whimp and is a lot stronger than the 12 bolt in axle shafts, ring and pinion and housing. I would put it close to a 60 in strength and the 10.5 corp 14 bolt I would place above a 60 in strength. Nice thing about the 9.5 is you can get a ARB for it but not 10.5 inch one.  

I never said it was a wimp.  However, with the 10.5" you could limp home if you had a broken axle.  With the 8.5", 8.875", and 9.5" if you break an axle you'd better bring a spare.

This is true but you are far more likely to break a axle on a 10 or 12 bolt with big tires than in a 14 bolt 9.5 inch as they are pretty beefy.  Plus, it weighs a good bit less than corp 14 bolt which is not bad either in some uses.  

My right foot has a mind of its own.  The fullfloater gives me that added insurance when my brain and my right foot don't agree.  If you've got the green you can switch to disks which will drop about 100 lbs off the 10.5.  But, I can see how that big of an axle might be a deterent.  It gives up a lot of ground clearance to smaller axles.

I understand your point but bigger is not always better and the same 100 lbs you claim to save on a 10.5 with discs (I think it is closer to 40 to 50lbs) you could save on a 9.5 too.  Plus, if you used after market axles in the 9.5 it is doubtful you would ever break them. I personally have never seen a 9.5 axle broken but anything is possible and I am sure it has happened but you would have to really work at it. I full floater kit (if they exist) for the 9.5 would be a nice setup. I have a 10.5 in my 2000 K3500 and that axle pig really hangs low.