203 swap

SnoMan:
I have a 700R4 in my 89 burb that has close to 190K miles on it now and still works flawlessly.(I bought it new) Nothing wrong with a 700R4 towing as long as you have correct axle ratio behind it for work being done and you keep it cool. The 700R4 is  a modified design based off THM350 and it is not a weak tranny either and properly build a 700R4 can handle 700HP and 700 ft lbs of torque.

But take in consideration that I have a big block and the tow weight was 18,000 pounds. I'm sure the 700 would've fought well but not with that kind of load. Even with it cooled properly I think it would have alot of clutch wear. But also with a 28ft camp trailer with a 4 place 4wheeler flat bed or the 12 foot enclosed trailer pulling doubles, that is a bit much for the 700 also. My 402/TH400 with the 36s and 4.10 gears was a bit tough because I was too high of gears and needed 4.56 to be better but it still did well and never had any tranny problems. I no longer have the trailers or tow much like I did but it was nice to have it when I needed it. I'm building the 91 to handle all the towing needs now. That's why I'm thinking of building the 700 for the 74 for offroad use only.  

some good info guys lol hmm i am going to have a 383 and i think the 700r4 and the 208 would be the plane because this truck is going to be street only besides me living on a mtn lol.  

784x4:
some good info guys lol hmm i am going to have a 383 and i think the 700r4 and the 208 would be the plane because this truck is going to be street only besides me living on a mtn lol.

Sounds good. Let us know as you go! But question, why street only?  

well i am building this truck for show and to drive so i thought i better not do any off roading i mean dont get me wrong i love it but not for this truck    

784x4:
well i am building this truck for show and to drive so i thought i better not do any off roading i mean dont get me wrong i love it but not for this truck  

Yep. I totally understand how that goes    

There is a good argument to be made though that even a show truck should be able to "walk the walk as well as talk it" meaning it should be fully capable off road even if it is never taken there.  

well yea it should be good for that i am putting mud 33s and a 2.5 front and rear sup lift and what ever drive tran i pick.  

hey in all yalls off roading and working on these trucks have yall seen a cross member and a skid plate every one that i talk to says that they have only seen the cross member






                 my truck
 

As a matter of fact, I had the dual crossmember skid-plate deal in my 75 Chev 1/2ton 4x4 with a 350/350/203. From what I gather it is kind of a rare thing andI'm not sure as to why they did that in the first place. It sure makes it nice to know your guts wont get ripped out when you drag it across something gnarly    Bad thing is, it'd take an extra half hour to get all the extra bolts off if you had to take it out with hand tools for any reason for a trail fix    

If I found myself doing a lot of off road repairs on my truck or others I would have a portable gas powered air compressor strapped in bed with some air tools. I never work without them at home. They can spoil you.  

SnoMan:
If I found myself doing a lot of off road repairs on my truck or others I would have a portable gas powered air compressor strapped in bed with some air tools. I never work without them at home. They can spoil you.

That makes it a bit easier! I went to the battery powered stuff. I have a Snap-on impact that is awesome! It will take lug nuts off my truck without any hesitation at all  I also have the DeWalt impacts too. That's about the closest thing I can find that works about as good as the air powered stuff. But I think air would be best with the other advantages it has to offer.    

The amount of power to can place in a air tool is limited only by the amount and pressure of air supplied to it. I have many sizes and types of air tools (impacts and air rachets) including a 3/4 inch drive one that will make very short work of even nasty pinion yoke nuts on drive axles.  

SnoMan:
The amount of power to can place in a air tool is limited only by the amount and pressure of air supplied to it. I have many sizes and types of air tools (impacts and air rachets) including a 3/4 inch drive one that will make very short work of even nasty pinion yoke nuts on drive axles.

When I had my 83 K5 I had onboard air because I wa at the sand dunes alot and needed to air the tires back up after playing and I would almost say that by having airtools the time my buddy broke an axleshaft in the front end, it was definitely a big time saver and made it alot easier. And I agree with you on the 3/4drive impact gun, that would come in handy when a yoke is damaged from ujoint failures. It sure would beat using a pipe wrench and breaker bar. I've done that a few times and some of those juts don't like to come off very easy  

it is good to hear that someone had that set up lol  

I had the dual crossmember/skid plate as well.  It was on a 77 1/2 ton shortbed with a 350/SM465/205.  Great little truck.  Wish I still had it