Good Lockers? - Four Wheeler Forums at Four Wheeler Magazine Four Wheeler

Good Lockers?

  
User Name:
Password:
Join FREE Now!
Forgot Password?
Forgot User Name?
Remember Me
Get Adobe Flash player
Home | Active Posts | Search | Register | Terms | FAQs
Rss
Prev Page |  1 |  2
Item Posts    Sort Order

Good Lockers?

 
BigMo BigMo
User | Posts: 55 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 01/14/09
11:23 PM

I'm very glad y'all brought these issues up cause I'm sure it's going to save me in the long run.  When I went to the 4wheel parts store in Ft. Worth, TX they were praising the Ford 9" but I dont think they understood that I was putting a 393 stroker in it.  What I was thinking about doing is finding an older Dodge diesel (97 or older because I talked to a guy at Dana who told me that 97 and older modle Dodges have a stronger axle bearing set up) and using the axles from it, because if I remember correctly the Dodge diesels have a D60 in the front and a D70 in the rear.  I am sure that that set up is the lowest I would want to go but for now I think I'll try it out.  Besides junk yards and craigs list does anyone know where I might look for these axles?  I am paying off a lift kit right now but when I pay it off (which will be in a few weeks) I am going to do some heavy searching for a set of axles.

Also I have a few other questions I was wondering if anyone knew about:

1.  Would a stock steering gear box and power steering pump be good enough for my set up (F-100, 393 stroker, 44" tires) and if not what would be a good choice for me to consider?  Right now I removed the stock pitman arm to install the one that came with the lift kit and befor I install it I want to change out the gear box if I need to.

2.  There are a few components that I will be re-using that are in good shape but could use a little sand blasting and a paint job and some brand new parts that are just bare metal.  I am wondering if there is a better way to protect the metal and prevent too much corosion too fast than just sand blasting and powder coating.  Or is that the best way to go?  Is there possably any chemical treatment or somehting that I could use on the metal to help keep it corrosion free or to keep corosion at a minimal?  I know its a mud truck and its going to get muddy, wet, and beat up but if I can atleast help keep the integrity of the metal stay good for a while I would like to do that.  As long as I wash it off after a good day of mud running and take care of any paint that may be chipping off I know I can atleast help to slow down any rust.  If I am building a good truck I would like to enjoy it for a while.  

All the help is greatly appreciated and I thank all of the input everyone has made.  Thanks.  
It takes big nuts to follow us.

 
Stover Stover
User | Posts: 183 | Joined: 12/04
Posted: 01/15/09
05:56 AM

My thoughts:
Leave the rear 9-inch axle open for the time being and install cutting brakes. Learn how to use them.

Up front, install a E-Locker or ARB.
Then save your $ and upgrade to Longfield CV axles or CTM billet shafts (front only).

Later when you have more $ to spend scrap the rear 9-inch and get a Dana 80 or 14-bolt, add a ARB to it and you should have less chance of breaking with the 44-inch Boggers and Stroker engine.
The benifit with this route is you gain cutting brakes in the end and you will know how to use them.  
You can do anything you dare to dream.

 
ford_munky_man ford_munky_man
User | Posts: 105 | Joined: 12/08
Posted: 01/15/09
06:08 AM

Not sure why he would want to leave the 9" due to the weakness with the 44's, but cutting brakes are cool, just not sure why on this rig.  And I like your dodge idea.  The only other real place to look for them is from friends or like classifieds in the newspaper.  But it might be cheaper at a junkyard, depending on how well you know the dealer. (my guy here is pretty good with people he knows)  But, ya stick with the dodge idea, but I like stovers idea with the E-Locker or ARB, they are pretty reliable lockers.  
Lift it.  Fat girls can't jump!

 
SnoMan SnoMan
Addict | Posts: 5783 | Joined: 05/04
Posted: 01/15/09
07:37 AM

You know it is not just axle shaft strength  for 44's but housing strength too which keeps it true and all glued together. A 9 inch it a 2 ton rated housing at most and big tire and wheel offset derate a axles capacity because on increased strain it places on housing too. Even if axle and pig in a 9 inch could be made strong enough for 44 you still have a weak housing relative to tire size.  

 
BigMo BigMo
User | Posts: 55 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 01/16/09
01:26 AM

Ok, I think I have a pretty good understanding of the axle issue, and yes I will so my best to stick with the Dodge idea.  That way I will (provided I find both axles still on the truck) be able to get both axles at the same time and not have to piece too much together.  Once I get the axles I want I am going to get my truck and new axles down to the local shop and have them do the professional stuff like installing the gears I want, lockers, axles, and turn my axles up for the better angle.  

I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the other 2 questions from my last post, about the steering gear box and the corrosion treatment?  
It takes big nuts to follow us.

 
Stover Stover
User | Posts: 183 | Joined: 12/04
Posted: 01/16/09
05:19 AM

On the steering: No way. The stock box will not live long with 44-inch tires, (if you actually use the truck hard). You will likely break the sector shaft or frame where the box mounts to it. You may want to consider adding a hydraulic assist setup or better yet, a full hydraulic steering system like what we run on the Mega Titan. I suggest POS, Stazworks, or Redneck Ram to help you get what you need.

As for coatings:
Powder coating is nice because it is very durable and it looks awesome and is easy to clean, but you won't ever see cracks in the material under it. That's why all Baja race vehicles have raw finishes. If you can see the crack before it becomes a problem you can prevent a breakdown.

Paint is always a good ooption because it is inexpensive. The problem is it dosn't last very long, especially on mud rigs.

You could have the parts galvinized. read about this process at the following link
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization  
You can do anything you dare to dream.

 
Jungleboy4 Jungleboy4
Enthusiast | Posts: 289 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 01/19/09
04:45 AM

With a 393 stroker and 44 inch tires I'd consider the possiability of a set of Rockwells, especially if you like to use the skinny pedal. You ain't gonna hurt them with power. Even a 14 bolt with that kind of power and tire diameter you'll need to be gentle on the go-go pedal. Although, with a Rockwell you will not have as much aftermarket options and gear set options as the 14 bolt.  
------------------------------------------------------------                                                                                                                                                                                 '75 CJ5, Chevy 327, SR4, twin stick D300, D44&D30 with OX lockers, sitting on 3" lift and 33's.

 
Prev Page |  1 |  2

Ford Explorer Research
Ford Explorer Car and Truck pricing can be complicated and sometimes confusing. As an authority on car buying needs we provide information about new cars, such as the Ford Explorer and all the features it comes with. The Explorer has a $1,000.00 cash rebate, which will help you save money on your next new car purchase. It comes with comparable warranty coverage to other vehicles in its class. Also check out the Nissan Xterra and the Dodge Durango.