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Old vs New axles
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BigMo
User
| Posts: 55
| Joined: 06/08
Posted: 10/24/08 01:19 AM
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I have a 75 F-150 4x4 and I want to take the stock axles out so I can install a D60 in the front and a D70 in the rear because I am putting 44 inch tires on the truck. Would I be able to use axles from a newer F-350 super duty? The only difference is that my 75 F-150 has coil springs in the front where as the new F-350's have leaf. But I am going to cut the spring saddles and the shock mounts off of the axle housings so I can tilt the axle to line up the drive shafts at a better angle. When I cut off the spring saddles and shock mounts to tilt my axles I figured that if the distance between the shock mounts and spring saddles on my old Ford are different than on the new Fords than I can reposition them not only for the angle but for the distance too. I'm just not sure what other problems there would be that I would run into. As far as the gears go, if they dont match then I can always order a new set of matching gears. Well if anyone has any tips or thoughts or concerns please let me know. Any advice will be great, thanks.
It takes big nuts to follow us.
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Posted: 11/04/08 03:12 AM
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If i were you i'd look for a 78-79 Ford King pin Dana 60 from a F350, I'd stay away from the newer stuff, ball joints suck and they would be most likely the same or more than a 78 front 60, If you want rear Disc braks look for a a 99 and up steerling 10.25 rear off of a F250-F350 for the disc brakes, but it you want a strong axle and don't care for the disc brakes or axle look for a GM 14 Bolt Full Floater Rear, They're Cheap, common, and easy, You'd have to fine a 2001 and up for disc brakes how ever if you find on disc brake conversions are easily found. The 1 ton ford rears are expensive and parts are expensive, if you keep your coils then you'r have to make or buy sring saddles if you want leafs that you'd have to hang the spring hangers. Its a tough one with something custom lol Good luck to ya
2005 Chevy 2500HD, 12 inch Lift SAS, 4 link, Dana 60 5.13s, 14 Bolt 5.13s 40 inch Trxus STS tires.
Myspace Page- myspace.com/littleslugger123
Cardomain Page- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3123740
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BigMo
User
| Posts: 55
| Joined: 06/08
Posted: 11/08/08 05:48 AM
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Ok, thanks. I will deffanatly use that advice. There is a shop in town that said he can customize the axle housings as in grind the spring saddles off of the old and new housings and then take everything from the old housing and weld it on the new housing, which will give him a chance to tip my axles up at a better degeree to put less stress on the u-joints since I am putting a 9" lift on it (44" tires ). Thanks again.
It takes big nuts to follow us.
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SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5783
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 11/08/08 06:00 AM
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A big word of caution here. You do not tilt axle up they way to improve Ujoint angle as it throws axle caster way out of whack and can cause handling and stability problems. To only correct way to do this to to cut axle tubes loose from pig and rotate pig up and then reweld tubes to pig. This improves drive angle and keeps caster angle correct.
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BigMo
User
| Posts: 55
| Joined: 06/08
Posted: 11/09/08 11:05 PM
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What is the caster and the pig?
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SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5783
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 11/10/08 05:08 AM
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The "pig" is the differential housing that axle tubes are pressed into and then welded and caster is the inclination angle of ball joint pivots from front to rear with zero degrees being straight up and down and positive caster being top joint tipped back toward rear of truck relative to bottom joint. This has a big effect on tracking, stability (death wobble) and handling. You want about 3 to 4 degrees of positive caster here minimum. Rotating whole axle as you suggest destroys this and take caster negative and can cause a lot of problems as mentioned above.
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Posted: 11/10/08 05:20 PM
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is cutting pig and rotating it up forward a backyard doable kinda thing?, cuz i really really dislike how low the pinion and driveshaft are on the my front d44, they haven't really been damaged becasue most of my wheeling is sand and mud but if i was to do some rocky stuff my drivshaft wouldn't last very long, my dads got a big welder that could handle the welding duties but how would you remove tubes in first place to rotate the pig?
solid axle chevys cant be beat 78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires
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SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5783
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 11/10/08 06:32 PM
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There are shops that specialize in this. You drill/cut out old weld and use a fixture to reposition pig and align axles tubes and then you re weld it. Heck those places can even pull tubes and shorten them and cut and re-spline axles (or you can order custom axles shafts) This is not a home project unless you have a very serious work shop.
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Posted: 11/14/08 02:43 AM
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SnoMan: There are shops that specialize in this. You drill/cut out old weld and use a fixture to reposition pig and align axles tubes and then you re weld it. Heck those places can even pull tubes and shorten them and cut and re-spline axles (or you can order custom axles shafts) This is not a home project unless you have a very serious work shop.
AND ITS NOT CHEAP
2005 Chevy 2500HD, 12 inch Lift SAS, 4 link, Dana 60 5.13s, 14 Bolt 5.13s 40 inch Trxus STS tires.
Myspace Page- myspace.com/littleslugger123
Cardomain Page- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3123740
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Jungleboy4
Enthusiast
| Posts: 289
| Joined: 06/08
Posted: 11/14/08 01:46 PM
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Yep, ***
------------------------------------------------------------ '75 CJ5, Chevy 327, SR4, twin stick D300, D44&D30 with OX lockers, sitting on 3" lift and 33's.
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