my current truck is growing to the point that its getting to be a expensive daily driver so i was wanting to get a Jeep Comanche, with the hope of one day turning it into a mudder, would it make a good mudder? or should I look for a different small truck? for now i just need it to be a daily driver though  

I would suggest you have to vehicles. I cheap daily driver and a mudder. The two do not go together well though some try. When you start lifting Comanche and putting big aggressive tires on it the "cheap" part of daily driving is going to take a hike. You might look at a old 4 cyl Ranger for a cheap daily driver too.  

lol  snoman......a chevy guy in a ford.  

chariotofmanliness:
lol  snoman......a chevy guy in a ford.

I have seen some of those Rangers rack up some impressive miles and there is not shortage off them in market place. A Comanche is pretty rare and getting rarer so selection is very limited. I used to be a GM man but I doubt that I will ever by another GM truck again. My last one cured me.  

i had a 01 ranger in 01 and that piece was literally done done at 90k 1-1/2 old(i was a courier) before that i had a hand me down 86 toy p/k totaled bad too.  that think went 300k probably would have went more if i didnt get that dumb new car itch and yes im a chevy guy  

i don't doubt ya snoman. i was just laughing about the point that 1986blazer is a chevy guy and you're sugegesting he get into a ford.........you know that rivalry.....lol  

chariotofmanliness:
i don't doubt ya snoman. i was just laughing about the point that 1986blazer is a chevy guy and you're sugegesting he get into a ford.........you know that rivalry.....lol

On my 2000 K3500 that I bought new and only has 43 K miles on it in the last few years I have replace both engine oil cooler lines (rusted out and dealer only) all three brake lines off ABS controller to first junction (rusted out and low quality metal)and all the fuel lines. One had a rust hole, the other rusted and the junction between front a rear fuel lines was rusted tight and refused to come apart so I had to replace them from fuel tank to engine. These are dealer only and pricey. Then fuel tank retainer clips that held pump in with snap ring were nearly rusted off and tank was getting some serious rust so I replace tank, straps, bolts and a new Bosch fuel pump too since tank was new. This fuel problem all started when I blew the line in frame rails going to rear axle (it was severely rusted in a few places and one section came out in pieces) As I was removing clamps for brake line the fuel line started to leak and then I had to cut straps to get tank out and then use a high speed cutoff wheel to cut out tank bolts and nut plates to replace them too. I am custom fabbing stainless steel lines for brakes going to rear axle so it will never happen again (brakes anyway) and painting and sealing fuel lines. GM could have spent another 20 or 30 buck on truck and used SS lines from factory but they want it to fail it seems. And if you look under a new GM truck (after you get past big impressive looking bumpers that are actually chrome plated plastic)you will find that ABS controller has been moved for its protected position under the hood to down under trucks in elements. (really stupid) So why would I want to buy one now given problems I have had with just my lines???? Funny part is that body is cherry and not a speck of rust on it. I also have a 89 burb that I bought new and it has all of its original lines on it and doing fine. Also I might add I need to replace tranny cooler lines too because they do not look very healthy.  

the manufacturers are building them so that you have to take them to a dealership to get them fixed. i think it's a crock, some of the el cheapo parts they build with.  

New GM vehicles are the true sum of parts from the lowest bidder.  

That is true about parts going to the lowest bidder...but where are you at again, Sno? Im up here in Montana on the western side of the rockies and my 93 k1500 has never had a rust problem underneath. the state of MT. puts this crap thatll eat anything in a few months on the road to keep snow off. the thing here is to take it to a car wash and wash the under carriage, might be a pain in the asss but it sure beats the problem you had.  

Montana uses a compound that is not very corrosive and works at low temps because salt does not work at normal temps up there. I am in Ohio and not even in the real rust belt either. Suppliers and quality of parts can change a lot in 7 years too. It is kinda funny, there is places when brake lines look like day one and then a half a foot away from it they are toast. There is in my book no excuse given how important brakes are not to use SS tubing for them. There should be a Federal standard for this like there are crash standards if they will not do it on their own. We are talking about a average of maybe 35 bucks more per vehicle here and a 35 to 45K vehicle or about .1 % of price. But then they would loose sales in future because lines would not rust out and dealers would loose work replacing them. On the fuel lines, they are steel with a hose crimped on them and a SS fitting on end of hose that clips on to pump. These fittings look like new and steel parts are toasting. I did see one change they made in new lines though. Were flex lines are swaged to steel they used to use a steel ferrel that has mostly rusted away on my lines. The replacement lines have a SS ferrel on them now but still steel tubing to rust out.  

i always repaint all that stuff in the spring (i own jeeps). i figure an ounce of prevention can't hurt.  

Me I do my annual check in fall so it is "fresh" going into winter work months. It is amazing the damage for one year. It seems once it gets to a certain stage it explodes.