700r4 temp guage

hey do any of you guys know off the bat the size of the stock gauges for the 78 chevy style dash im talking about the small gauges to the left of speedometer, since my blazer came with the clock gauge that dosn't work anymore and i don't plan on using, i think it would be cool to install the trans temp guage in that factory location but what diamter guage is it?  
solid axle chevys cant be beat
78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires

you can probably check with LMC. I'm sure they have the replacement gauges so that will tell ya what size they are. I like the idea though  

well i checked lmc and they don't state the diameter of gauges, but since i know so many of you fourwheelers have a chevy of 73-91 era with the same gauges, some one has to know the size gauge to fit in the stock location. please anyone?  
solid axle chevys cant be beat
78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires

come on, please  i know lots of you guys have chevy with the same dash im talking about, but does anyone know waht diameter gauge to order to fit the trans temp gauge in the stock dash hole for the clock to the left of the speedometer????      
solid axle chevys cant be beat
78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires

autometer has some 2 1/2" or so gauges...  
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will those 2 1/2 inc diameter guages fit behind the stock chevy dash gauge holes, the small ones to the left of the speedometer? i don't want to have mounting pods on the top of dash or lower dash so think it would be cool if i remove my non working clock gauge and put in the trans temp gauge in its place so i need to know what diamter gague to buy  
solid axle chevys cant be beat
78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires

I can't remember waht size fits behind the stock cover, i had a blazer that had autometer gadges in it. I put em in the dash panel with the bezels out, it looked awesome.  
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mudb8-.:
I can't remember waht size fits behind the stock cover, i had a blazer that had autometer gadges in it. I put em in the dash panel with the bezels out, it looked awesome.

that what i want to do  put some auto meter gauges behind the stock chevy dash but for now im gonna start off with the trans temp guage but what do you mean wiht the bezels out? ive taken apart my dash before and am familier with it but what are you talking about?  
solid axle chevys cant be beat
78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires

I used a hole saw and made the holes larger and put the autometer gages in the dash and eliminated the the original spedo and everything behind the cover..  
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oh right on but some pictures would be really great    
solid axle chevys cant be beat
78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires

I'll see if I can find a polaroid of it, this was before I discovered digital.... like 1990 if that makes sense to ya!  
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If you request it, they can easily set it up for manual converter lock. However, I recommend that you still have some automatic controls, especially for 4th gear, so that you can't forget about it and cook the tranny.

There are different ways to wire it and that is all easy to change later. The important decision is what to put in the valve body. There is a valve that reads TV pressure and governor pressure and decides whether or not the converter should be locked. The pre-ECM trucks used this along with a manifold vacuum switch to control lockup. ECM trucks have lockup controlled entirely by the computer. In these setups, you already have a manual lockup option just by wiring in a switch.

I use the older style (hydraulic + electrical lockup signals) with a bypass switch in the cab to prevent lockup below 4th gear. I can't think of any good situation to have the converter unlocked in 4th gear.
The problem with full manual control is that the lockup clutch is not that tough. If you shift gears and hammer down on the throttle with it locked, you can wear it out pretty quick. For full manual setups, you should think about one of those high $$ converters with a big clutch. Remember that the transmission has to be pulled everytime the converter is changed. And if the clutch goes bad and you don't notice it for a while you can smoke the whole tranny.  

I just got on this site and know a little outdated, but yes you can put a trans
sending unit in one of the two pipe plugs. i have mine this way. the pan might be a litle better because the flude might be a little cooler temp because the plug has preasure on it witch will raise temp. if you keep that in mind you should be ok .
the two plugs are for preasure check when they build them to see if everything is moving right.  

wow nice to see this brought up lol ....well i endued up buying an aluminum deep sump pan and drilling and tapping a hole in it for the sending unit......btw with my tranny cooler and deep sump pan the trans temp nevers goes over 150 degrees  
solid axle chevys cant be beat
78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires