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keithpapa
Enthusiast
| Posts: 556
| Joined: 10/07
Posted: 09/25/08 02:00 PM
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So Im getting ready to go back to work today and push the clutch to start my pup and "POP" hydrualic fluid all over the place! . Its the 3rd clutch master cyl in a year and IM PISSSSED! how can they get away w/making parts out of plastic let alone crappy plastic!. It looks like it split at the seams again.
just venting cause now I have a dead jeep and a dead chevy.
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Posted: 09/25/08 02:13 PM
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Well that blows... wonder what is causing it to happen, there has to be a reason they just don't spontaneously break in half... or maybe they do.
Long Travel 4 Wheel Drive - The Best of Both Worlds!
Questions? Comments? Concerns? PM Me!
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keithpapa
Enthusiast
| Posts: 556
| Joined: 10/07
Posted: 09/25/08 02:46 PM
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well the first 2 busted at the seams on the long part of the body underneath and this time it looks like it busted at the seam near the roll pin area.so I dont know if I should try an oem style from chevy or go w another aftermarket...im telling myself to go w oem.
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Posted: 09/25/08 02:49 PM
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If it were me after breaking two aftermarkets I would go back to OE... but thats just me.
Long Travel 4 Wheel Drive - The Best of Both Worlds!
Questions? Comments? Concerns? PM Me!
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SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5134
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 09/25/08 03:29 PM
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Are you running a aftermarket clutch that puts more pressure on clutch master cylinder?
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keithpapa
Enthusiast
| Posts: 556
| Joined: 10/07
Posted: 09/26/08 06:01 AM
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Hey Sno...yes its a carquest gold special clutch kit and get this the damn throwout bearing doesnt have a zirk fitting to grease and it making a awful wining noise too so Im kinda discouraged about the whole deal.Other than the master cyl and the throwout bearing the pups giving me NO headaches. it has close to 170K miles on it and it doesnt use a drop of oil.
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Posted: 09/26/08 07:56 AM
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certain parts for cars should always be OE
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SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5134
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 09/26/08 09:38 AM
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1986blazer: certain parts for cars should always be OE
I tend to agree with this. Stronger clutches just move stress loads elsewhere is drive drive. A clutch is kinda a fuse of sorts in that it control has fast torque can be suddenly applied to drive line and also the peak shock load limited by it grip. When you find yourself having to play a OEM clutch a lot it is time to look for deeper axle gear to lighten average torque load, not a stronger clutch.
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fatguy4X4
Enthusiast
| Posts: 385
| Joined: 05/08
Posted: 09/26/08 02:14 PM
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i won't buy any parts from those cheapy chains! I will only buy replacement parts from our local NAPA. They tend to be a little more expensive, but far more reliable. Napa has true "parts" people, not "cashiers". I only go to the cheapy chains for stuff like oil, antifreeze, car polish, etc.
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SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5134
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 09/27/08 05:09 AM
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When I shop for parts, I shop for who built them not who sold them. Napa can have good parts but you cannot give them a blanket statement that all are good there or bad somewhere else. Example GM sold off Delco Remy division a while back and with it the tooling and rights to use name Remy and now it supplies starters and alternators and such to GM and after market under Remy name with is same as before (they are true litter mates to last detail except for name) but cost less because it is not part of GM anymore or its labor costs and overhead. Advanced Auto sells Remy OEM parts.
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Posted: 09/28/08 08:55 AM
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1986blazer: certain parts for cars should always be OE
Got that right! My father went trough 3 aftermarket radiators for his Jeep. The first two didn't even make it into the Jeep, he noticed cracks in them right out of the box. The third lasted about a month, he ended up going with OE, no problems since.
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SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5134
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 09/28/08 09:06 AM
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1986blazer: certain parts for cars should always be OE
Jungleboy4: Got that right! My father went trough 3 aftermarket radiators for his Jeep. The first two didn't even make it into the Jeep, he noticed cracks in them right out of the box. The third lasted about a month, he ended up going with OE, no problems since.
You must remember that OE does not usually make radiators anymore as they are outsourced relabeled and marked way up. If you by a quality after market unit, you will not have any problem and if you did around enough you can even find out who builds them for OE. I recently bought a new fuel tank for my truck. The OEM was 588 bucks and that was with a discount (list was over 750). I found out who was GM supplier in Canada and bought same tank and same marking as OEM for 112 bucks through a local parts supplier.
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Posted: 09/29/08 10:14 AM
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exactly example i buy bendix brake pads they are the ones that make the oe ones also. almost every thing regarding the ignition system i get AC/Delco especially plugs
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Posted: 09/30/08 04:22 AM
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1986blazer: certain parts for cars should always be OE
Jungleboy4: Got that right! My father went trough 3 aftermarket radiators for his Jeep. The first two didn't even make it into the Jeep, he noticed cracks in them right out of the box. The third lasted about a month, he ended up going with OE, no problems since.
SnoMan: You must remember that OE does not usually make radiators anymore as they are outsourced relabeled and marked way up. If you by a quality after market unit, you will not have any problem and if you did around enough you can even find out who builds them for OE. I recently bought a new fuel tank for my truck. The OEM was 588 bucks and that was with a discount (list was over 750). I found out who was GM supplier in Canada and bought same tank and same marking as OEM for 112 bucks through a local parts supplier.
The first two where Be Cools, don't recall the third.
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