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Trasmisson swap in CJ5?  
Jungleboy4
User | Posts: 194 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 08/01/08
05:56 AM

I have a week link in my '75 CJ5 in way of a SR4 tranie. I want to swap in another stick, and don't want to have to change alot other things such as longer or shorter drive shafts. The Jeep has Chevy 327, D-300 t-case, D-44 rear, D-30 front. The SR4 has only held up this long due to my 4.27 gearing and 33" tires. The moment I added OX lockers to front and rear it's started to show its' weekness. Any help on a stronger tranie with minimum changes would be great, thanks guys!  


 
SnoMan
Addict | Posts: 5156 | Joined: 05/04
Posted: 08/02/08
05:08 AM

I would "suggest a T176 or T177. It was considered a MD tranny (yours is LD) and has same bolt pattern on it and about same length. It too was a Ford tranny. The 176 was used in CJ's from 80 to 86 and the 177 in FSJ's. The 177 has a deeper first and reverse gear than 176 (3.82 vs 3.52). The T177 is pretty close to current tranny in overall ratios.  Stay away from T178 and it only has a 3 to 1 first and reverse gear in it. If you went with a T18 or 98 you would have to do some adapting. A AX15 should fit too which is also a MD tranny and same general ratio range and so should a NV3550 used in jeeps since 2001. A 3550 is a 3500 in a case that is designed to be a bolt in replacement for a AX15 (AX15 was used from 1989 thru 2000)  


 
Jungleboy4
User | Posts: 194 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 08/03/08
04:57 AM

Thanks for the info, I was thinking on a NV3550 myself but didn't know if it would bolt up to the Chevy 327 or not. I gave up looking for T176 or 177 years ago as older Jeeps are more popular here on the island than the new ones. These guys down here hold on to everything to use for spares, and don't want to get rid of'em. You also have the retired boxer Tito Trinidad who is a Jeep freak, buying up everything Jeep related on the island. He offered a freind of mine $50,000 for his CJ8 a couple years ago, with buying power like that how can you find anything you need? I've been using whatever I can find or order through catalogs for parts, thank God for Advance Adapters. I really don't like like ordering alot from catalogs as when I lived in the states it's so expensive for shipping. Case in point, my lift kit for my Jeep cost me $400 it cost me $900 in shipping to get it here. Good thing about the NV3550 is I can probaby get it from the local Jeep dealer new, possiably the junkyard even cheaper. Once again thanks for the info.  


 
SnoMan
Addict | Posts: 5156 | Joined: 05/04
Posted: 08/03/08
07:45 AM

In your case the 3550 may indeed be your best option. As mentioned earlier it is a bolt in replacement for a AX15 which was used from 89 thru 2000 until 3550 replaced it so it should not be hard to get it to work for you with minimal trouble.  


 
Jungleboy4
User | Posts: 194 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 08/06/08
07:00 AM

I beleive I'm going to go with the 3550, in process of hunting one down now. Got another question for you Snoman. I just recently installed twin sticks on my Dana300, shifts from 2 to 4 wheel just fine, real sooth. Shifting from high to low and back again is a real job, it will shift but acts as if in a bind. Checked everything, shift rails actual shifter eveything seems to be installed correctly. The unit I installed didn't require the t-case to be opened, you just have to work with shift rails, there were no problems shifting before the change, I'm baffled, any thoughts on this?  


 
SnoMan
Addict | Posts: 5156 | Joined: 05/04
Posted: 08/06/08
09:23 AM

I would examine linkage and the way it works (have someone shift it while you watch it) and look to see were bind may be. I suspect it is in the "levering" of shift rails by linkage that may be putting side loads on rails causing them to bind. Might need better lubing to combat this. Also if you have not already done so, some fresh lube in Tcase never hurts either and sometimes it helps.  


 
Jungleboy4
User | Posts: 194 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 08/06/08
05:57 PM

Yeah, already tried that, even took the shifter lose and operated rail by hand. So it's not in the linkage, it's in the actual rail. I maintain the drivetrain quite regularly, maybe that whole assembly needs changing. It's odd that it started to do that when I changed from single to a twin stick though.  


 
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