How big is too big?

I would NEVER do different tire sizes on a 4x4 unless I was running different axle ration in a special setup and balanced the ratios to tire size. Also smaller tires up front will lead to drive line bind and steering issues on harder surfaces and add strain to weaker front axle. If this was a true full time 4x4 vehicle, tire size would be a bit more flexible.  

I have a stretched yj running 38,s.I only have a 302 SB EFI engine and It is more than enough power.It's in the gearing my friend.I have a t-18 tranny with a 6.32 to 1 first gear and 5.38's in the axles ,4 to 1 t-case.If you are setting on 3 grand and your grand mother walks past you ,There's no need for mega horse power.Nice to know there,s a new wheeler out there.Remember,If in dout throttle out.Good luck with your build friend.  

well if he has a part time t case it wouldnt matter if it was in 2 hi on the road....and besides there is only about a .5 inch to 1/4 inch diffrence in the size of those tires.  
'80 chev stepside,3/4 ton, 4 spd, 40" interco's, crazy flex, and one good driver lol

with cromoly axle shafts in a dana 44,It will handle 37"boggers in the front as well.Even in the rocks,I would recomend Superior or warn.  

It is still in a D44 housing and knuckles and has a 44 pig too. For some reason some think that bigger axles transform everything. What many do not realize that when they design a drive axle, the axle shaft yield point is kinda like a fuse for drive axle and will protect the internal drive gears and fail before they are damaged. When you upgrade axle shaft then you get into the realm of the gears/pig, housing or knuckles failing. The moral is if you need more strength,install a D50 or D60 and you will be ahead of the game.  

Once agains snoman, not everyone has 1200-1500 dollars to run out and buy a used dana 60 so we have to deall with the stupid little dana 44's untill we save up to buy a 60......and another question do you acually 4 wheel or do you just snoplow. and how come you dont have any "rides pics" in your profile?  
'80 chev stepside,3/4 ton, 4 spd, 40" interco's, crazy flex, and one good driver lol

I see a can of worms here!  
---------------------------

see me at robsoffroad.com

Tyler__820:
Once agains snoman, not everyone has 1200-1500 dollars to run out and buy a used dana 60 so we have to deall with the stupid little dana 44's untill we save up to buy a 60......and another question do you acually 4 wheel or do you just snoplow. and how come you dont have any "rides pics" in your profile?

Once again your ego takes presidence over logic and physics. Rather than say I will build a bit smaller so I am 99% it will hold up you tell them to go for gold and hope the rubber bands hold it together. If it was a small Jeep, I would say maybe on better axle shaft but not on a full sized one. Also a D44 has a capacity of about 3500 lbs with stock tires but with big tire and off set rims the load capacity is reduced because of extra leverage on axle housing. BTW, I used to wheel a lot and even "pull" trucks when sport fire started and likely before you even knew what a 4x4 was and maybe even before you were born but now they are work vehicles for me. If I used your logic on my work trucks I would be broke down a lot or praying that it does not. To me durability ALWAYS is more important than ego and looks. I do wheel some still and I know when I do the worst thing that is going to happen to me is that I am going to maybe get stuck. Not bust a axle, spindle, knuckle and fry a tranny or overheat because my 4x4's as configured and geared to work and survive and have been for years. Never loss my first tranny or Tcase or broke a axle and it is not because I did not play hard but rather because of how I packaged it. I know I can get in my K3500 and it can be 95 plus out with a 4 or 5 ton trailer and not worry about tranny toasting or engine getting warm (it has never exceed 210 (and was only there a few times in traffic with a heavy trailer) since new and usually below 200 even when I am chilling in cab. See to me a truck is a tool and not a toy and I like my tools to be able to give 110% for any task like the time a few years ago I hauled a 14.5K trailer (dozer and trailer) 60 miles on a warm summer day at speed up to near 70 and it never even broke a sweat nor did was I even remotely concerned that it would or that it would fail. (it actually kinda surprised me as too how well it pulled it) BTW, you will never see me plowing snow with a 1/2 ton truck either and any one I buy today for this is a 1 ton.  

if ya'll are gonna fight, take it outside....and i got $20 on the old guy, they fight dirty.  seriously, the point Snoman is trying to make is a good one. ya gotta have some patience and do things right. it's a freakin blast to push yer rig to the limit but it blows when it's broken and ya can't afford to fix it. it took me a long time to learn. my DD is lifted as high as it will ever go. it has the biggest tires it will ever have. NOT because i can't afford to go bigger, trust me, my wife and i make a decent living. i just learned not to beat the hell out of a $30k ++ pickup. Ya know, fer the $$$ some guys spend on big tires, billet rims, stereos, etc...i'm just sayin  

The point I am making here that many think they are making their 4x4 HD with bigger tires and stock gears while they are actually making them more LD because it is going to take less to break them and they are going to be bigger slugs too.