i do 85 to work every day, and i like to jump, that may be where my problems come from  

I have long used about 150 Ft lbs of torque on those nuts and never had one crack or break. You are not stetting preload correctly before to tighten outer nut and that is why it is binding and possibly even cracking nut too. BTW, I have been busy and not been around much last day or so.  

I dont even use the torque wrench so I really can't say what the torque I use is other than about all I can pull with a 1/2 drive ratchet...

the preload is the key thing...  

Proper type and use of locking ring too!  

well i'm done arguing. i guess i just dont know what im doing. and i guess the local 4x4 shop, 3 club members, and the local axle shop are also stupid. hey at least mudb8 tried to help me find the product.  

outlawoffroadofaz:
well i'm done arguing. i guess i just dont know what im doing. and i guess the local 4x4 shop, 3 club members, and the local axle shop are also stupid. hey at least mudb8 tried to help me find the product.

Actually they all must be pretty clueless because "IF" you install the correct locking ring and nuts and set preload properly they will not loosen up. Just because you have a shop does not mean you have it right. Those spindle designs have been used on production vehicles for over 40 years. They have only made one change on them. The changed the design on the locking ring from a bent tab washer to a thick keyed one the is pinned to inner nut in early 70's (my 72 had them but my 70 and 67 did not) IF you do not get preload set correctly the bearing can tighten up when it heats up and expanded and put a lot of extra force on nut. When bearing is properly preloaded it will have a tiny bit of play when outer nut is torqued down. I have no doubt that I could inspect parts (make sure they are good) and set it up and it would not loosen and if you cannot figure it out you need to find someone that actually knows how to do it because you have not yet. BTW, I have a old J20 Jeep truck that has pushed snow and carried a plow for many years and that is HARD on front ends and bearing and it has been over 12 years since I have been into hubs and they are still tight. Also when ever I do tear one down, I replace all seals inner and outer and check inner and outer bearing as well ten repack with a good grease and roll. I also have a 89 4x4 burb that I bought new that has not been torn down either for over 10 years and it is fine  and it has over 180K miles on it too. You do not need a reverse thread spindle, you need correct nuts and locking ring and PROPER installation with proper tools. Until realize and you do this, you are going to keep banging your head against the wall on this.  

theres no one stupid here.....

the ifs has been around long enough, the dealers and shops don't have to deal with the old stuff frequently. we have new and young techs that can make a computer controlled engine tick and don't have a clue how to set the dwell on a set of points..or fix a carburator.

the preload is something that has to messed with a bit before it gets the tires put back on, there is no effective one step method to the final preload...  

The "stupid" part is believing that you have to have a reverse threaded spindle for it not to loosen up. Not that is it not being done correctly. Furthermore, if one was to "believe" that a reverse thread was the cure, if the nut moved on that one in a tightening motion (reverse thread) it would tighten bearing and burn it out. Like Mudd said there is no easy one step method to set it correctly. Forget the book as it is kinda trail and error getting correct endplay/preload when it is fully torqued. After you have done it a few times correctly and get the "feel" for it you can sometimes get it right first try.  

my 81 did that too,only on the passenger side,it was a case of ethnic engeneering on the part of the meth head i bought it from.he left out some pieces when he worked on warn hubs he replaced.dont know why the threads were all worn out though,and the guts jus moved all loose like ,got rid o the POS and last i saw the owner went on down the road that way,i told him to watchit,he didnt care.four wheeler gon bad i guess  

ok snowman, you're starting to really piss me off, i actually checked out other posts of yours and they all have one thing in common; you enjoy spending all of your free time on this website in forums inflicting your opinions, (mostly ignorant ones, but sometimes correct) on everyone else. its people like you who ruin forums for the rest of us who are actually trying to gain something from them. so even if i am doing it wrong, and the guy at the axle shop is doing it wrong, and the guys at the off road shop are doing it wrong. - oh yeah, i live in phoenix and these places i have taken it to are all accredited, certified, and franchised. also you argue with me and you fail to read and comment on all of my post almost every time. you insist on telling me that that has never happened to you. well, i have never nailed 3 women at the same time, but it has happened to other guys. you argue about what i'm having a problem with, but you fail to address the other spindle problems i mentioned. you just want to argue and it is for this reason that i have been soured of this website and will no longer be a part of it. oh yeah, and after all this, no one has answered my question from the original post. wow, what a great forum. like i said before, at least mudb8 tried to help look for it. all you did was argue about it. you're an idiot. thanks for nothing.  

You can be ticked off all you want but the simple fact is you are setting it up wrong plain and simple. A "reverse thread" would not cure it and would burn bearing up if it loosen nut as it would spin it inward applying more preload. Some that do not like some off my answers are more interested in BS than fact or have trouble understanding that some people like myself have been around 4x4's for over 35 years and really do "know" about some of this stuff better than young "kids" working on them that were not even born when some of this stuff was main stream. Some go to forums for ego as I do not and some try to help as I do. You can ignore my advise if you want but you are not going to fix it until you do it correctly. If you have a spindle that proper OD and threads are not worn and proper nuts with good threads and locking ring (thick keyed washer) it will not loosen up. Again you can waste you time being mad chasing ghosts or chill out and learn something and do it correctly. The choice is yours.  

as i said before, the reverse thread was not my main concern, it was just a part of the product. what I really wanted was an upgraded nut design.

wow, there you go again commenting without reading all of the info!

hey, maybe these people don't know what they're doing either.

QUAD4X4.COM
We see a lot of problems with the outer wheel bearing wearing into the spindle nuts on Ford and Dodge trucks with elastic stop nuts and lock wedges.  For these years, we replace the original single nut and wedge with a spindle nut upgrade set that consists of a thrust washer, lockwasher, two nuts, and an axle shaft gasket.  This upgrade is available in a kit with a spindle nut socket.

so do you still stand by your statement that this 40 years of design is correct, or will you finally agree with me that some axles, depending on their owner's abuse level, could use an upgrade???  

oh, cool! here's some more people who are stupid. how ironic. they think they need to upgrade, too! they must also be doing something wrong. wow, there sure are a lot of dumb "kids" out there!

explorer4x4.com/spindlenut.html
Steps to upgrade the Ford spindle nuts that should've been stock on the Dana 35's....

I know what you're going to say, i haven't found the chevy 10 bolt upgrade yet, so i'm still wrong. well, i dont sit on the computer all day, but i will find it eventually.  

1ST OFF I KNOW HOW FRUSTRATING IT IS TO NOT GET AN ANSWER YOUR LOOKING FOR...
2ND I ASKED ONE OF MY TECH AT MY DIESEL SHOP I WORK AT AND HES SEEN HUB ASM. WHERE THE BACK BEARING RACE WASNT SEATED PROPERLY AND WHEN YOU PRELOAD THE BEARINGS ITS GIVING A FALSE FEELING THEN YOU PUT THE WEIGHT OF THE RIG DOWN ON THE GROUND THEN THE WHEEL WILL WOBBLE...
3RD HE SAID THAT IF THE 1ST NUT HAS THE PIN THAT SHOULD BE FACING YOU, THE LOCK RING SHOULD GO ON THE PIN AND SOMETIMES THE PIN GETS SHOVED OUTA THE WAY CAUSE ITS NOT LINED UP PROPERLY AND THE REST OF THE LOCK WASHER HAS NOTHING TO BE PINNED TO AND THE NUT WILL JUST SPIN...
HOPE THAT GIVES YOU ANOTHER AREA TO LOOK FOR THE CAUSE OF THE NUT BACKING ITSELF OFF.  

HEY OUTLAW...I THINK I FOUND WHAT IT IS YOU WERE AFTER BEFORE YOU GOT SIDETRACKED...GO TO STAGE8.COM AND GO TO X-LOCK OFFROAD PAGE AND IT SHOWS WHAT YOU ARE AFTER I BELIEVE...SO HOPE THIS IS IT FOR YA AND GOOD LUCK!


ROCK ON!!!