Currently i have the stock cast iron manifold for the spreadbore q- jet with an adapter to the 670 squarebore truck avenger carb.  I am looking at either the edelbrock performer which claims to make best power from idle to 5500 or would it be better to match my holley with a weiand stealth which is a holley product, they are both dual plane. I will also be using a 2 inch phenolic spacer.  I am looking to make the most low end torque i can, i may also add some more cam and roller rockers, nothing extreme just basic engine bolt-ons. So what is my best bet as far as intake manifolds and maybe some other bolt-ons or easy swaps.  

A few words of wisdom here. If low and mid range torque is your prime goal. You want to stay with a dual plane intake. Also your carb is really to big. Some seem to think bigger is better but it does not work the way. You can go too big. When this happen the air velocity is not high enough in venturi and mixing is poor and so is response. A 500 to 550 max would be a better match and improve low and midrange torque.  4 bbls' are rated in flow at 1.5 inches pressure drop across carb (about .70 PSI). They will flow beyond rated capacity at a slightly higher drop and will doing so mix fuel and air well. When you use a 670 vs a 550 you might see .1 PSI less drop in pressure on that engine but this will not increase power and actually hurt it at lower RPMs do to air velocity in venturi as stated above. On cam, you need to keep duratio under about 260 tops (at .006 lift) if you want good low end torque (250 would be even better) One more comment, if you are seeking more power to overcome tall gears and big tires, your money and effort would be better spent on deeper axle gears.  

Im not looking to compensate for my gears, im going to either a 4.88 or 5.13 when i get my 3/4 ton axels. my engine is old and tired and needs a rebuild, i would like for it to have some power off the line, and have good torque while crawling at low rpms.  I may be able to snatch up a 383 that just needs some gaskets and oil pump for next to nothing, so i am building with the mindset that most of these parts will be transfered to a 383. This is whats on my shopping list so far, pete jackson timing gears, summit high output hei distributor, roller rocker arms, under-drive pulleys,new intake+ 4 hole 2in phenolic spacer, cam, 2300-2600 stall convertor. I need ideas on some other cheap and easy bolt-ons.  

Take high stall converter off list. YOu do not need it is gears and cam is right and hi stalls make a LOT of heat when stalling. Stick with a stock stall and focus on llow end responces. 670 is still to big for a 383 as it will not reach rated flow until about 7000 RPM. You want rated flow near HP peak if you want best power and responce across board. I mean no disrepect but there seem to be a mind set that bigger carb mean more HP and some like to say they have a 670 or what have you but if you are serious about best possible response and power band with current engine or 383, loose the 670. It would play better on a warmed up 454.  It is better to be a little undersized than over sized. Many years ago when I used to run SB off road hard I used Qjets. When set up properly they do well and with central fuel bowl they tolerate off road angles better than most carbs. I used to use Competition Cams 260's with good results with automatics back then too. 252's were better if you had a stick and wanted good low RPM grunt. BTW, if you do not wind your old mill to 5000 RPM and more trying to use the 670 and change oil often it can run for some time. High RPMs can be hard on old engines.  

at .005 the duration is gonna be about 204..depending on the degree of the lobe center, for
the advertised duration of 260....

as snoman's saying here, these are the same choices I would also advise...

crane still has the 260-2 nc profile, I have used it in several of my own rigs, also crower has another favorite of mine labeled the baja beast....advertised @258 duration  

well, with the exception of the 454 comment...
I use 18-2200 stall speeds when dealing with three speed auto's, your stock 700 stall is in the neighborhood of 16-1850...awesome with the low first gear...  

Actually torque converters kinda have two "stalls".  One standing still and another is the speed at which is finally fluid couples so to speak. Usually this is 500 to 700 RPM above rated stall. This is why I recommend staying at or above about 2500 RPM on a long hard pull with a stock converter to stay clear of heat making stall. If you had a 2200 RPM stall this would be about 2800 to 2900 RPM so unless you plan to keep RPMs above 3000 a lot under load off road I would stick with a stock stall. No surer way to fry a tranny that riding stall a lot under a heavy load. Actually for off road, the lower the stall speed the better as long as engine makes the needed torque at low RPM to go with it. In the end there will be less tranny heat.  

my end goal is around 350- 400 flbs of torque some where in that area, what is the ideal convertor speed, my friend just got his 375 horse 350 a 2600 stall convertor and switched from a full lock-up converter, he said with the lock up he couldnt break his 33's loose, but now the truck lights them up shifting into second, but he is building it more for the street.  My main goal is low end response for at trafic lights when those *** in their hondas and acuras are reving their engines i will smoke them off the line, and when im at the base of a hill and need to tear my way up it. Where i live its not a lot of rocky climbing, it starts as real looses *** and gradually makes it harder terrain as you climb.  

If you go with about 5.13's or so, you will have no launch problems. My guess is your friend did not regear properly. Keep stall low and use deep gears and keep locking converter too.  

that all depends on what its getting used for...the higher stall puts the stall in a higher torque/hp range and will lay waste on a launch to the same set up gears and all to a low stall. the stall needs to match the cam also as does the induction and exhaust.
say your using a cam that has a 2500-6500rpm range, if it gets a stock stall, it will not get out of its own way, without a 2500 rpm stall regardles of gearing.

keeping the cam under the 260 duration the stock stall is a great choice with a 700r4 tranny, with the other tree speeds, 2200 does the job with ease.  

It is true that cam plays a big role in stall needs but unless it is a 4x4 for racing, I see little need for a high stall and a radical cam in one. A 700R4 plays so well with real deep gears, it has a deep first gear and a tall OD and make a excellant package with a deep rear axle for stump pulling low speed power and decent cruising RPM.  

ok, keep my stall at or below 2200, dont go over 260 duration on cam, got it.  Any other recomendations for building for torque, just bolt-ons or mild modifications, i dont want to get into a bunch of expensive machine work.  

Smaller carb. It will give you more low and mid range response and torque. YOu are "over carbed" and that actually hurts more than it helps.  

I also agree on the carb,

a 600cfm vacuum secondary will give you a bit more torque and reduce the chances of a bog. the 670 will work...it's just that it could be better.  

cant i just re jet the carb to make it equal to a 600