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Posted: 02/15/08 07:19 AM
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I have a 1974 Chevy 1/2 ton custom deluxe longbed . I've rebuilt the 350 and primered as much of it as i could to keep it from rusting, other than that its pretty much stock. For you chevy finatics you already know that my truck is fulltime four wheel drive with a np203 and a 350 tranny, its got a dana 44 up front (I think) and its got a 12 bolt in the rear. I want to use this truck for all applications of offroading and i can probibaly sink around 9 to 10 grand into it, where do i start?
War's are fought and won by those who believe most in the cause.
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Posted: 02/15/08 08:24 AM
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well i would start by tearing out your motor trans and transfer case. then i would tear out your axles. then i would take you 9 to 10 grand and go buy a cheap wrangler with no mods for 3 to 5 grand. then throw in your motor trans and transfer case. then throw the axles under it. then take the money you have left over and buy rock sliders lower gears for the axles a winch and big ass tires. then you could sell the stuff you tore out of the jeep for money to put in a full roll cage and you now have a lighter vehicle with the same power train so it will kick even more ass. and probably even have money left over after you sell your old truck body for scrap metal. but thats just what i would do.
will work for jeep parts!
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SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5229
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 02/15/08 09:55 AM
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jeepnut4life: well i would start by tearing out your motor trans and transfer case. then i would tear out your axles. then i would take you 9 to 10 grand and go buy a cheap wrangler with no mods for 3 to 5 grand. then throw in your motor trans and transfer case. then throw the axles under it. then take the money you have left over and buy rock sliders lower gears for the axles a winch and big ass tires. then you could sell the stuff you tore out of the jeep for money to put in a full roll cage and you now have a lighter vehicle with the same power train so it will kick even more ass. and probably even have money left over after you sell your old truck body for scrap metal. but thats just what i would do.
Not the answer he was looking for I am sure. Also if he follows your lead he will not really have a Jeep either but more of a Cheveep. As Jeeps go, I believe in keeping a Jeep and Jeep and I would never use a engine that Jeep never used.
Back to his question. What he need to do depends a lot of tire size he plans to run. If he limits it to 35's and does not lot front axle, the D44 should hold up pretty good. I would truss it if you plan on doing some hard landings. In the rear, I consider a 12 bolt a bit light for 35's especailly if you plan to lock it. I would suggest you find a 9.5 inch 14 bolt semi floater for rear. They can be had in 6 lug and 8 lug flavors and are solid up to 38's or so. The 203 Tcase is very strong but many suffer from neglect (they do not service them) You need to change fluid in them and the chain in them holds up well IF you change lube from time to time and keep it full. BTW, contrary to popular belief, you want to use 30 weight NON detergent oil in Tcase, not 10w30 which many recommand because they simply do not know or were not around when Tcase was designed and built (I was). The reason for this is that non detergent oil foams less in the 203 and lubes it better. WHen it was built is was speced for 30 non detergent not 10w30 detergent (you can use 20 weight non detergent in cold climates) You will like the full time mode off road a lot as you will find that over 90% of the time that you do not need to lock it and the differential in Tcase allows for different rolling radiuses in turns and reduces steering wheel bind in turns on surfaces with good traction. I have a old Jeep J20 with fulltime and it is great off road and on road under slick conditions. Axle gears is what is going to make it run or not. Many cut corners here and ham string their rides with tall gears. A set or 4.56 would play well with 35's.
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Posted: 02/15/08 11:57 AM
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have fun when your done! its gonna b cool
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Posted: 02/16/08 08:04 AM
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Thanks for the advice I wasn't sure if i should unlock the front end and go with a T case doubler from off road design. I want to run 37's but im not sure if thats affordable as im in the marine corps and with a military pay check and three kids i dont have much funds to keep buying expensive tire replacments. So beefyer axles is where i should start then? What about lift kits? I was considering a shackle flip kit for a 4" lift in the rear, followed by a 1" body lift, but i dont know who to go to for the rest of the suspension lift being as i've probibaly read a million off road magazines and not really seen a usefull article on my application.
War's are fought and won by those who believe most in the cause.
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Posted: 02/16/08 08:05 AM
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P.S if i wanted a jeep i would have bought a jeep, not saying your advice isnt usefull but i see my self as more of a chevy kinda guy.
War's are fought and won by those who believe most in the cause.
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SnoMan
Addict
| Posts: 5229
| Joined: 05/04
Posted: 02/16/08 10:24 AM
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RobertMorrowUSMC: Thanks for the advice I wasn't sure if i should unlock the front end and go with a T case doubler from off road design. I want to run 37's but im not sure if thats affordable as im in the marine corps and with a military pay check and three kids i dont have much funds to keep buying expensive tire replacments. So beefyer axles is where i should start then? What about lift kits? I was considering a shackle flip kit for a 4" lift in the rear, followed by a 1" body lift, but i dont know who to go to for the rest of the suspension lift being as i've probibaly read a million off road magazines and not really seen a usefull article on my application.
I would suggest 35's as that will work fairly well with current front axle. I would not try 37's with it. As far as a doubler, if you take the time to install some 4.88 gears or so to go with the 35's you will not need it and it will run really well on and off road. Many neglect to do this and are always looking for magic solutions with air cleaners and dual exhausts which do not fix the power problem. Only gears fix this proper and they also extend tranny life too. (many have trannies fail with lifts, big tires and stock gear and blame tranny when if they had regeared it the tranny would have done fine)
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Posted: 02/23/08 09:33 PM
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jeepnut4life
well i would start by tearing out your motor trans and transfer case. then i would tear out your axles. then i would take you 9 to 10 grand and go buy a cheap wrangler with no mods for 3 to 5 grand. then throw in your motor trans and transfer case. then throw the axles under it. then take the money you have left over and buy rock sliders lower gears for the axles a winch and big ass tires. then you could sell the stuff you tore out of the jeep for money to put in a full roll cage and you now have a lighter vehicle with the same power train so it will kick even more ass. and probably even have money left over after you sell your old truck body for scrap metal. but thats just what i would do.
--------------------------------------------------------- honestly mr. jeepnut your idea would be a waste of perfectly good chevy parts. lol jk i only kid you.
'80 chev stepside,3/4 ton, 4 spd, 40" interco's, crazy flex, and one good driver lol
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Posted: 02/24/08 12:33 PM
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how bout putting a set of traction adding devices(the opinions are belly buttons)i like limited slips,good for where i wheel,look to where and how ya wanna wheel,then choose the next part of the off road equation,where are you driving the most?on or off road,its cool to have the ultimate adventure vehicle,type tires,but those jobbies wear fast,but tires are important to the ultimate traction equation.all the rest is just there to turn them.your gonna need a somewhat flexy suspension,nothing like having an axle hanging in the air giving ZERO traction.so heres my belly button,tires-traction- suspension,and the rest will follow the function.HAPPY WHEELIN!
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keithpapa
Enthusiast
| Posts: 602
| Joined: 10/07
Posted: 02/28/08 03:49 PM
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if this is a build up and not a build as you drive then i would start with the engine first because its easier to get a new or rebuilt one in when its lower to the ground,then tackle the suspension and drivetrain then wheel/tires and regear to match tire size and do some trimming to fit tires if needed, then interior cause you need to be comfortable!
IT WASNT ME, IT WAS THE ONE ARMED MAN!
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Posted: 03/09/08 04:20 PM
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Sorry been away for awile on officail Marine Business, haha. All your ideas are awsome stuff and im looking into it. The motor is brand new rebuilt already, however i used mostly stock motor stuff i upgraded the headers, intake, distributor, other little stuff as well so my motors good even though im thinking about going propane from a kit from gotpropane.com
War's are fought and won by those who believe most in the cause.
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neo-ice
New User
| Posts: 44
| Joined: 03/08
Posted: 03/18/08 03:54 PM
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sounds like your in the same boat as me, always an honor to meet a fellow soldier, HOOYA!
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