I am trying to find a pair of replacement spindles for a gm corporate 10 bolt front axle. I saw an ad on a website somewhere about a new product that has reverse thread for the driver's side so the bearing nut doesn't loosen itself. I have to re-torque the OEM nut every 1000 miles. the locknut behind it doesnt even help. i saw this product and have since forgotten the website. I remember it was a different nut design also. stronger, better, etc. please help me find this product or company that makes it. thanks.  

I have been working with those spindles for over 35 years and a seriously question the need for this. I have never had one loosen on me. You are doing something wrong here because if to install the inner nut, the locking ring for it and outer nut and torque it properly it will not loosen up.  

well, they do loosen up. 3 of us have had the same problem. one of the girls even took her truck to a well known offroad shop here in phoenix, and the problem happened again. we have gone by the book every time, and they still loosen up. junior's burban even had a nut crack in half. i have seen the product somewhere on the net, and would love to have it, even if its not necessary, if only for the upgraded nut and locking nut design.
honestly, do any of us have only necessary things on our rigs??? if it was all about using only what is necessary, would the offroad aftermarket even exist???  

What style lock ring are you using and what torque value are you using and how much preload/endplay are you leaving when you set it up??? Also, what size tire and rim are you running too?  

using oem style with a locknut behind it. i think its 55 ft lbs and then back 1/4 turn and then 35 lbs, i cant remember, i loaned my books to one of the guys last week, and he has them at his garage, i'm not gonna call him to wake him up. i dont even bother with the books anymore, i just pull the hub and tighten the nuts every couple of weeks when the wheel starts to wobble. i have replaced everything, talked to everyone, and tried every thing. i just want someone to tell me where to find the part i'm looking for. it seems to be the only solution. i'm tired of replacing parts like calipers, pads, bearings, races outer hubs, etc. i'm running 15x8 wheels and 35 12.50 mud king tires. like i said, we go by the book. and this problem has also occured after a professional shop did a bearing install. we have also have seen nuts crack in half, causing major damage to hubs and bearings. i know this product exists and i just lost the paper the site was written on. we cant be the only ones with this problem if they're making this product.  

I've never had one come loose on me either and I've run the tar out of the 10 bolt with 38.5's. I don't even get out the torque wrench for that, run it up tight then back it off till it's loose, leave a bit of play in the preload, whatever it takes to allign the pin for the lock ring then crank up the outer lock nut. whn the lock nut is tightened it will also make the preload slightly tighter.  

mudb8-.:
I've never had one come loose on me either and I've run the tar out of the 10 bolt with 38.5's. I don't even get out the torque wrench for that, run it up tight then back it off till it's loose, leave a bit of play in the preload, whatever it takes to allign the pin for the lock ring then crank up the outer lock nut. whn the lock nut is tightened it will also make the preload slightly tighter.

This is pretty much how I do it. The early ones had a flat washer with tabs BETWEEN two nuts and that was keyed to spindle that you bent over nuts to to keep it from loosening. Then they wnt to a setup the you have a inner nut with a raised pin that a thick hardened flat washer indexed to pin via many alignment holes and had a tab locking it to spindle. You then tighen outer nut against it to about 125 to 150 ft lbs. As stated above when you tighten outer nut it increases preload a bit on bearing. It may take a couple of tries to get it set right until you get feel for it. I have found that you want just the very slightest amount of barely detectable end play when outer nut is torqued down so it need to be "looser" still before outer nut is tightened.  (bearings expand a bit when hot so you want this end play) One further note the locking washer it keyed as such that you can flip it over to get a different range of alignment so if holes do not line up with pin, flip it over. If you do not have this washer installed properly and with proper torque on it too, it can loosen up.  

exactly right there...snoman.  

wow, awesome, first of all THANKS FOR ANSWERING MY QUESTION! Second, i actually wasted my saturday and tried your method of tightening the outer nut to 125. at 100 ft lbs the nut broke in half. i decided to try new nuts, the outer nut was tightened to 115, and it was making my bearings grind and drag way too much. out of curiosity, i tried going higher to see what the breaking point was. at 130 the new nut also cracked. the books dont even call for that much torque. I called a local axle shop, and he confirmed my findings; too much torque. he also said that he was interested in the manufacturer of these driver's side reverse thread spindles, because he had a few guys in the past year with the same problem come to his shop. their locking nuts, pins, all kinds of crap was breaking on their hub centers & spindles. They all wanted a stronger setup. this new company has an upgraded nut design that does away with the thin, low grade metals used by the manufacturer.  
i'm sorry that you guys think you're right, and maybe for your truck, or jeeps, you are. maybe your use is not as abusive as ours. either way, i still have the dilema of trying to find the replacement part that i described at the beginning of this post. i dont care what you think, i want the part. i dont care if i dont need it, i want the part.
i think jeeps are tiny and stupid, but i'm not telling you how wrong it is to drive a jeep, because it works for you, its what YOU want. so if you're not going to help me find this part and if you insist on arguing with me than please dont plug up this post and let someone who knows what i want help me to find it again. thanks.  

the bearing was to tight cause the inner wasn't loose enough when you torqued the outer nut...preload the bearing then back it completely off leaving some play then crank up the outer lock nut, if it wont spin freely..repeat untill it does. theres no one step method to this unless you've done many of them and can guess the initial play before the outer is torqued.
I don't torque the outer over about 70#, and never use a torque wrench for that simple job either..after youve got the feel for them it's simple and you'll never have another one come loose. I suspect even using the reverse threads you'll have these problems also especially with tight bearings, It takes a few tries to get it rght.

if these reverse hub were the awnser to everyone's problems there would be no problems finding them.  

BTW...just so you know I've wasted quite a few hours on searching for the reverse thread hubs...even though I think they area huge waste of money and time.  

so why was the snow guy saying 150 pounds??? i know its a simple job because we all pack our bearings after we go muddin or at least every time we change our trans fluid (15k miles) i go by the book, which is 55 lbs, but some guys go a little looser to leave room for the outer nut being tightened. at 55 i have room, and the pass side on my truck is fine, i keep losing the drivers side.

it seems every chevy in the club is a little different. some guys have no problem and their tires are bigger. but my point is, there are several trucks in our club that have had the problem, like i said before, if not for the reverse thread, at least for the tougher nut design. junior has broken 2 now. one he broke going down the highway, and the pass side nuts he broke jumping the burban out near china wall in glamis in early feb. he also shattered 3 windows on the landing, but thats beside the point. that was a long tow back to camp through sand, dragging his wheel, and i dont feel like doing it again. we dollied my truck out there, because my drivers side wont stay tight on the freeway. wheeling around glamis we did ok, but after 2 days and nights, it was coming loose again.

believe me, i have talked to so many people about this issue in person and on other forums, and they all say for the abuse we inflict, and because 3 of us have had the same consistent problem, and not only on the drivers side, this product i found is the answer. i just wish i could remember the website.  

well, thanks for looking and thanks for the helpful tips. we did 3 trucks in one day in january, packing bearings and installing new brakes or hubs, etc. i did jays blazer and my truck, and junior did bearings for one of the guys who is still learning, and again my drivers side was the only hub with the problem. that day i changed to a new spindle and new nuts. we even rotated the tires in dec thinking that was the problem. this sucks. the problem started for me last summer in jersey because everything there off the parkway is a hard right turn, now its just an everyday problem. i just want a d-44.  

It's hard for me to see how it's a problem cause I run 39.s on a 10 bolt, and have also run 44's on them without wheelbearing problems..I'm not sure where th 100+#number came from, I didn't notice till earlier today.

anyhow where did you or what did you see it in?

sounds like my type of group there, I'm usually the one considered the idiot.....  

this is what snowball guy wrote about torque specs

mudb8-.:
I've never had one come loose on me either and I've run the tar out of the 10 bolt with 38.5's. I don't even get out the torque wrench for that, run it up tight then back it off till it's loose, leave a bit of play in the preload, whatever it takes to allign the pin for the lock ring then crank up the outer lock nut. whn the lock nut is tightened it will also make the preload slightly tighter.

This is pretty much how I do it. The early ones had a flat washer with tabs BETWEEN two nuts and that was keyed to spindle that you bent over nuts to to keep it from loosening. Then they wnt to a setup the you have a inner nut with a raised pin that a thick hardened flat washer indexed to pin via many alignment holes and had a tab locking it to spindle. You then tighen outer nut against it to about 125 to 150 ft lbs. As stated above when you tighten outer nut it increases preload a bit on bearing. It may take a couple of tries to get it set right until you get feel for it. I have found that you want just the very slightest amount of barely detectable end play when outer nut is torqued down so it need to be "looser" still before outer nut is tightened.  (bearings expand a bit when hot so you want this end play) One further note the locking washer it keyed as such that you can flip it over to get a different range of alignment so if holes do not line up with pin, flip it over. If you do not have this washer installed properly and with proper torque on it too, it can loosen up.