Hi. I'm new here ,   just wondering if anyone has or is using acc torque convertors (formerly alabama t/c) I have a 93 suburban w 383 stroker,4.10's front & back, new rebuild on 4l60e. Will be pulling Rv trailer with this truck when not wheeling. looking for stall around 1400 to 1800 max. Thanks for talking to the newbe.  

No offense but you are going about this wrong. You do not need a lower stall converter, you need deeper gears to get it off current stall quicker. A 4L60/700R4 has a .70 OD and it will do quite well towing as long as you do not lug it towing and keep RPM up. Also regardless on what some claim, lower stall converter have less torque multiplication so you have less launch torque. Low stall RV converter made a bit of a splash many years ago before there was locking converter but since the 4L60 can lock in 3rd (with OD is disabled) and 4th the need for a low stall converter is moot. It you are riding the stall a lot towing now, you need deeper gears not a lower stall.  

Thanks Snoman. I had a 350 in this truck before w/the stock convertor and the 4l60. It pulled O'k, untill the stock convertor came apart. Reason unknown. Since I built a 383 w/435#'s of torque @ the lower rpm's, I was looking for a convertor just above the stock tc. Which I believe is around 1300?  Thanks again I'm not sure if I was riding the stall because like I said before I'm new here.  

stock is closer to 1800, I run 2200-2500  

tdadbow:
Thanks Snoman. I had a 350 in this truck before w/the stock convertor and the 4l60. It pulled O'k, untill the stock convertor came apart. Reason unknown. Since I built a 383 w/435#'s of torque @ the lower rpm's, I was looking for a convertor just above the stock tc. Which I believe is around 1300?  Thanks again I'm not sure if I was riding the stall because like I said before I'm new here.

The number one cause of converter failure is heat. When you "ride" a converter on stall it can make a LOT of heat internally which can lead to fluid failure and internal bearing failure. Converter run on closer tolerances internally and when bearing go out the can chew themselves up. It might seem like I am fixated at time on deeper gears but if you want long tranny life with a 4L60 towing you need to keep RPM up under load to keep it clear of stall (which is normally around 1800 RPM or so) and there is kind two stalls on a converter. The first being its rating at zero output RPM and the second when moving. This second one is usually 300 to 500 RPM more. One reason that 4L60's fail towing ia because some like to tow in OD which is kinda a no no with a 700R4/4L60. You want to keep RPM up when pulling hard (2500 RPM or more) so that you are free of stall. The .7 OD on these trannies gets you into trouble towing because the tranny hunts when it is not locked out and rides the extended converter stall in OD trying to tow load unless you have stock tires and 4.56 gears when towing in OD. Another "problem" is the tranny itself by nature of its gear ratios.The old classic THM350 had a 1st gear ratio of 2.52 and 2nd gear ratio of 1.52 and 1 to 1 drive. The 700R4/4L60 has a 1st gear ratio of 3.06 and a 2nd gear ratio of 1.6 and a 1 to 1 drive with a .7 OD. This means it has a 21% lower first gear and a 6% lower second to get load going so it can make a taller effective final drive ratio (axle ratio and tire size combo) feel stronger on launch yet in drive and beyond it lugs and rides stall towing and does the slow bake. A 700R4/4L60 is based off a THM350 with different 1st and 2nd with OD added too. Many want to step backwards and swap out a 700R4/4L60 for a THM350 when if they just placed gear selector in 3 instead of OD they would basically have a THM 350 with a deeper 1st and second gear.  

hello hey i`ve got  92 blazer full size large tires and would like to be able too disengage the lock up on the converter is that possible? or how do you disconnect the o/d so it will lock-up in drive???  

It is not hard to over ride lockup on converter but my question is why??? My guess is that you install big tires and did not regear truck and it hunts around a lot.  Forcing it unlocked to try to mask this problem increases tranny temps and shortens its life. As far as disconnecting OD, simply placing gear selector in "3" locks out OD.  

thanks SnoMan ya it came with 36" tires and higher gears. When I`m in 3 it won`t lock-up then when at freeway speed I shift to o/d it shifts twice, and at about 70 i`m going 1600 rpms?????? help  

ssisbest:
thanks SnoMan ya it came with 36" tires and higher gears. When I`m in 3 it won`t lock-up then when at freeway speed I shift to o/d it shifts twice, and at about 70 i`m going 1600 rpms?????? help

The answer is deeper axle gears not overriding lockup. You need about at least 4.88's in your axles. (do not even think about a 4.10 and even a 4.56 would be marginal at times with 36's and your OD tranny)  Even then that will only give you about 2250 RPM at 70 in OD which is still kinda tall for that lift and drag but a LOT better than current setup. I am kinda surprised that you have not fried tranny yet trying to do 70 in OD with current gears. It has got to be real slug in OD and not too perky in drive either. You cannot tune this problem away and wait too long and you will be spending more on a tranny rebuild than a set of gears.  

Hey sno i`m all screwed up there 31" tires!!!!  

It sounds like you have a 3.23 axle ratio now if you are getting that RPM at 70 in OD. That ratio which should have never been installed in a 4x4 to begin with. For 31's you want at least a 4.10 and if you think you might go bigger later, get 4.56's. Many fail to realize the importance of axle ratio in overall performance and drive train longevity. 4.10's would yield about 2200 RPM at 70 MPH in OD which should work pretty good with 31's and make truck feel like it had a big motor transplant too. MPG should improve too.  

if you need or want a bullet proff converter built to your motor and your needs, give http://www.teamramco.net/products.html a call.

  everything is done in house.and the guys that own/run the shop know thier stuff.alot more to a converter than just stall. And the owner flash is a real stand up guy.
  If you call, ask and see if flash or corkey have time to come to the phone.

 anything from mild, to wild with billet sheels etc etc.

  but if you dont have the correct gearing for your tires, you will fry converters and trannys pretty easy.  

canyoncritter1:
if you need or want a bullet proff converter built to your motor and your needs, give http://www.teamramco.net/products.html a call.

  everything is done in house.and the guys that own/run the shop know thier stuff.alot more to a converter than just stall. And the owner flash is a real stand up guy.
  If you call, ask and see if flash or corkey have time to come to the phone.

 anything from mild, to wild with billet sheels etc etc.

  but if you dont have the correct gearing for your tires, you will fry converters and trannys pretty easy.

The problem we are dealing with here is not the converter coming apart, it is it riding the stall because gears are too tall for tire size and load. When you ride the stall a lot, it slow bakes tranny. They only sure cure here is to regear properly so that you are clear of stall when cruising so that even when converter unlocks on a hard pull (like a hill) you are not riding stall cooking tranny. Do this and you will enjoy very long tranny life as well as improved overall performance.