blowers

Does anybody know of a supercharger (that isn't a centrifcal, eg.paxton) for my 03 4.7L Dakota. I found that kenne bell doesn't make them for my truck anymore.  

Centrifical blowers are getting to be more of the norm here. Be advised that there is not free lunch with them as you must use 93 octane and you will likely need to increase cooling too if you boost a lot as well. Then there is added strain to train to consider too. A better and cheaper cure here is if you find you SUV lacking power, regear it. The 4.7 is not a bad motor but it needs to wind up a bit to make its best power. Better gearing given you more power in all gears and does not shorten tranny life either (actually it can increase it)  

You're not going to find any simple way to install a roots-style blower on that engine. Why not use a centrifugal?
Your best bet is to use one with an intercooler (such as the ATI) simply because a cooler air charge makes more power.
You do NOT have to run 93 octane, but if you choose to run lower octane fuel you will need to back off the timing. Your best bet is to install an ignition (Crane or MSD are good) that includes a boost retard. This will retard timing automatically as the blower builds boost.
All this extra ppower will absolutely decrease the life of the rest of your drivetrain, so plan on rebuilding, replacing, or otherwise beefing everthing downstream.
If your lack of power is because you've added a lift and bigger tires, then regearing may well fix your problem. But if you're already running the correct gears, and are just looking for a ton of power, a blower is certainly an option. Of course, for maximum power increase, your engine needs to be built specifically with the blower in mind. You will get far less increase by strapping a blower to an otherwise stock engine than you will if you put the same blower on a motor that has been properly prepped.  

DD shows how little he really knows about forced induction and engine true octane needs. Only someone that really does not know what they are talking about would make a statement that you do not need 93 octane with a boost. Sure maybe you can severely retard spark and make it "work" a bit but loose a lot of potential power boost and efficiency and still run risk of detonation which can destroy a boosted motor in a heart beat. (DD's theory will also give you a really hot exhaust system as the wasted fuel energy from retard timing will afterburn more in exhaust rather than transferring it to crankshaft) Engine timing is critical for best power and efficiency boosted or NA but there will always be those like DD that think 87 is magical and all you ever need in a engine and when it is not enough you retard spark rather than use better fuel.   If you decide to boost, do run nothing by 93 if you want best power and long engine life. BTW, they have been super charge gas motor since around 1940 with aircraft piston motors and they did not play the DD game and used proper octane fuel and timing as there is nowhere to pull over a 25,000 feet when engine fails from detonation and no gas stations either.  

try don hampton blowers, he had one for my 4.3 chevy  

Try reading what I said. Ask someone who graduated the 6th grade for help. I said you do not HAVE to run 93 octane. I never said higher octane was not a good idea.
I'm not suprised you'd bring up WWII engines. From what I have read, that was about when you stopped learning.
Of course, the simple fact that trying to compare those engines to modern EFI engines is pointless never occured to your drug addled mind, did it?
You're quick to spout off about how superior your supposed knowledge is, but I noticed that you failed to respond to my invitation to bring your LSD equiped rig out here and follow me over some trails.
Similarly, I will invite you to meet me at a 1/4 mile track or road track and demonstrate just how fast your Edsel is.  

Dirty_Dog:
Try reading what I said. Ask someone who graduated the 6th grade for help. I said you do not HAVE to run 93 octane. I never said higher octane was not a good idea.
I'm not suprised you'd bring up WWII engines. From what I have read, that was about when you stopped learning.
Of course, the simple fact that trying to compare those engines to modern EFI engines is pointless never occured to your drug addled mind, did it?
You're quick to spout off about how superior your supposed knowledge is, but I noticed that you failed to respond to my invitation to bring your LSD equiped rig out here and follow me over some trails.
Similarly, I will invite you to meet me at a 1/4 mile track or road track and demonstrate just how fast your Edsel is.

I would expect this form someone that is really clueless. When they do not understand the message, they try shoot the messenger in a vain attempt to make themselves look better. If higher octane fuel was not needed they would not make it and someone with as limited a understanding as DD cannot begin to understand that the ONLY reason there is a knock sensor on a modern engine it is some people like DD can burn cheap gas in bliss ignorant of the power and efficiency they are loosing. One of the biggest hurdles to better fleet wide MPG (and reasons that diesel do so much better) is because of people like DD's affinity to low octane fuel because it limits best possibly timing and design CR's. See people like DD read a thing or two and think they are a expert and act those that actually understand the big picture. BTW, FI does increase the accuracy of fuel mixture for emissions but it does not negate octane or timing needs. Again modern knock sensor are made for guys just like DD that are really basically clues on engine efficiency and design. The theories that IC gas engines work on as for optimum timing, octane and CR for best MPG and power has not changed in 50 years. The only thing that has changed is how it is packaged. Detroit could build a car tomorrow with 11 to 1 CR and requiring 93 octane and have better power and MPG too but someone like DD would no more and want to run 87 in it and kill it of make it run poorly and then blame the car not the nut feeding it.  

in the last episode, snoman debates the intelligence of dirtydog, what's next............

BTW snoman, I actually own both supercharged and turbo'd gasoline vehicles, they run just fine on the cheapest gas I can find, however they do run better on premium grades, the cost is ridiculous, after 20 years of this so called abuse,  nothing is wrong with with them.  
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see me at robsoffroad.com

enough you two... get over yourselves and just try to help the people asking the questions... come on... isn't it possible you're both right some of the time... does it really have to come down to insults and "i know you are but what am i"... seriously  

" in the last episode, snoman debates the intelligence of dirtydog, what's next............"

I'm going to stay out of this... but that made me laugh... lol  
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thanx to blownsuki for giving me what i needed,Stay tuned after a brief word of our sponser the soap opera will continue on other threads on other subjects......  

BTW, a few nice things about a centrifugal blower verse a positive displacement type is one, it tends to deliver more boost at higher RPMs due to design (efficiency improves, kinda like a turbo) and the second is that it heats the air less than a positive displacement type (less friction between air and surfaces) so you can run more boost (about 15 to 20%) before same amount of heating is seen in output air. (air heats for two reasons, one is compression and the other is friction with compressor surfaces)  

i'd like to know if you can set up your turbo to work off a pully clutch, like mad max did with his car.....anything like that doable?  
I work to support my Jeep

yep you can. there are actually kits in production for exactly that!  
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see me at robsoffroad.com

haha, and you thought you were being smart.  
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see me at robsoffroad.com