well, i just found a 205 to replace my 203 that is in my 88 ram with a 440 and 727 trans.

is this a direct bolt in? and is the 205 lighter?(from what i have heard it is by about 60lbs)  and is there any  hp gain from less rotating weight in 2wd, i ask because i know that the np203 always spins the chain.  Does the np205 have a direct 2wd selection that only transfers power directly to the driveshaft and not the frond ds?

please post any advantages with the 205 that you know of.  

yep, it's lighter, stronger, and has 2h 4h 4l. the low range is a little higher than the 203 snoman I'm sure will tell you what ratios they are. I would only hesitate swaping them if the 203 has nothing wrong with it.  

I would swap even if the 203 is fine.
The NP205 is gear to gear, therefore stronger. It's also lighter. And it can be twin-sticked.
And it's shorter, if drveshaft length is a problem.  

yep, that shorter part was part of the point, extra cost plus a set of hubs if it doesn't have em already, It's definately a better unit than the 203.  

As to which is better, a 203 or a 205, that really depends on what you use your truck for. If you street drive a lot  under good road conditions a 205 would be better because it would use a bit less fuel. But if you spend most of your time off road or in bad conditions the 203 rules. Many the know 203 have never lived with or truly experienced full time 4x4 drive. I have many years and while I have had the Jeep version of fulltime in a J20 truck for 22 years I have had/been around 203's in the past too. I rarely ever have to "lock" my tcase and turns under power are smooth even on firm surface because the center diff in tcase to balance out axle speed differences in a turn due to different rolling radius of axles. As far as strength, the 203 is built very strong! it only weakness is that you need to service it often (every 12 to 15K give or take) which many never do. Also another mistake people make with them is lube type. It was designed for non detergent 30 weight oil not detergent multi vis oil which tends to foam in that Tcase and reduce lubing of it, I cold climates you can use straight 20. And for those than say chains is the weak link, that chain used in it is by far the biggest one ever used in a a 4x4 P/U or SUV to this day. You are not going to break it if tcase is in fine order and properly lubed. One the have chain issues do so after many many years of neglect and chains gets loose and jumps a tooth.  

hey snoman, i have to replace a transfer case in a 1990 1/2 ton chevy, 350fi. the problem is i don't know what tranny/transfer is in the darn thing. do you know what it might be, and what options i have in replacing it?  

If you have a floor shift, you should have a NV241 Tcase and tranny is a 700R4. That Tcase was used 88 thru 99 so it should not be too hard to find one.  

thanx snoman. could tell me if that is a good transfer, and if not what else can i swap in?  

the 241 is about as good as it gets unless you got a bundle of money to spend.  

no real money to speak of, i was just wondering if there was a junkyard up-grade  

well the 241 is the upgrade! actually I think there is a borg warner case thats stronger in the 3500's? dunno what is is though, my stuff is old, besides the rubi.  

My K3500 has a BW4470 in it as it offers a PTO port on it. Usually when your NV241 fails it is for one of two reasons. Either you never serviced it or ran it low on oil of you installed big tires with stock tall gears and forced Tcase beyond designed torque limits by using low range to try to make up for a improper effective final drive ratio (axle ratio/tire size combo) and sent it to a early grave. I have a simple rule here. In a modern 4x4 with OD when you divide tire size by axle ratio you want a number of 7.5 or less for good performance and drivetrain life with a SB gas motor. and 8 and above performance is becoming marginal in top gears and at 9 and above is well tend to be a slug at times.  

it's my dad's truck and totally stock from the factory.my brother is an addict (not the good kind) and thrashes the truck. he ripped the rear driveshaft out and never told my dad about it so the truck was run on the front rearend until the transfer failed. if the nv241 is a stout piece i'll put that back in it. i've just never dealt with anything other then a np205 so until you guys told me i had no idea what it even was. thanx as always!  

Like why would anyone let him drive it!!! No wonder Tcase went south. it is not designed as a full time FWD drive solution with rear drive shaft missing.  

Dirty_Dog:
I would swap even if the 203 is fine.
The NP205 is gear to gear, therefore stronger. It's also lighter. And it can be twin-sticked.
And it's shorter, if drveshaft length is a problem.

An NP203 can be twin sticked also.  One for range selection and the other for lock or not.