2003 Chevy S-10 zr2 4x4 problems

The way that front axle disconnector works is that the Tcase has a synchronizer in it and the the Tcase is supposed to engage first and get front driveshaft up to speed and then allow dog clutch on front axle to work. If there was metal there it mean that Tcase is not engaging properly and disconnector is trying to grab axle shaft dog clutch ears and chewing them up and is the source of your metal in oil. Fix it may not fix the root of problem as it may return.  

finally got my truck back.........wat was wrong with it was the vacuum switch on the transfer case and the actuator went bad and wasn't allowing it to lock in and out all the way causing the gears in the differential to grind away he checked the oil in the differential and it was silver with grinded up metal.

so it was a new vacuum switch, actuator, and differential and now it is fixed finally.  

awesome, I still wonder why the vacuum wasn't checked first, merry merry happy happy.  
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see me at robsoffroad.com

well after a $980 bill for a differential new actuator and new vacuum switch on transfer case it was still doing it again after I got it back so I had him put on the 4x4 posi-lok cable and it got rid of all that nasty grinding noise but it still makes a howling whining noise in the front end not very loud though but it quits just as soon as you hit the 4hi button but you put it back in 2wd and it starts makin the noise again.  I really thought getting rid of all the vacuum stuff that the 4x4 posi-lok cable would surely fix it but it didn't.  So therefore over $1,0000 and still not fixed I'm just about ready to take it to the junkyard I'm so frustrated with it.  Does anyone have any idea what the hell it could be now.  The 4wd works when it's in 4wd you can hear the transfer case kicking in and out when you hit the 4hi and 2hi button.  Also I might add when it's in 4wd and you are going down the road and you let off the gas and just let it coast you can hear a howling-grinding noise just while it's coasting and slowing down but just as soon as you hit the gas and start speeding back up it goes away again.  I don't know anything about the posi-lok cable really besides how to use it haha is it possible that the differential cable could be bound up or something like that.  I'm lost and I'm tired of it frankly.  

I have the same year and model truck and have been experiencing similar issues as you.   It first started a few months ago when I pushed the 4x4 button and it would engage after a couple minutes...then it took 15 minutes, then sometimes 30....finally not at all.  Now, i could hear the switch working (i believe the actuator i think...the clicking noise when buttons were pushed) but nothing would completely engage for 4 wheel.  So i took it in to a shop and they couldnt find anything wrong with it so they opened the transfer case and still found nothing.  The mechanic assembled everything back and changed the gear oil and it worked.  Though on my test drive with him it had some violent transfers into 4 wheel but after three switches back and forth...that disappeared.  

So for the next week, everyday I switch into 4 wheel to test it....it was okay.  Soon enough, i would notice it didnt go into 4 wheel when i pushed the button.  At times it would be okay, but the symptoms I'm noticing right now are under harder acceleration I hear a pop and it disengages back into 2 wheel.  Then, after driving, it will pop back in 4.  I also notice it on turns more frequently than not.  I tested it in snow in a parking lot....I pushed the button to 4, drove erraticly and as i was in a turn the 4 wheel disengaged (heard a pop(passenger side front it seems)...like the one you say sounded like a clunk or you ran over a pothole), and the truck's rear slid into a fish tail.  

So thats were I stand right now with it....it wont stay in 4...also, as im driving slower, I have heard the whining a bit then clunk (very small clunk but noticeable when listening for it)...then after the clunk, say 5-7 seconds it would do it over...whining--clunk.      A may take it to another shop bc I know the two mechanics who worked on it the first time, I was a little skeptical with the work...but im going to talk to them about it before I do another shop.  

I'm trying to figure this out myself  so any info as how it was finally fixed or other input is appreciated....thanks  

I have a 2000 ZR2 and I am about to hit 180k in miles. I feel your pain. I've been experiencing this buzz noise for a long long time and no one seems to have any idea how to fix it.  It's obvioulsy this was an ongoing issue with the model but the dealer has no answers. Lately it's been happening more and more. At first I had to come to a stop and I would hear something click in the front end and everything would be fine. Then I figured if I switch to 4whl hi and click back to 2whl it goes away.  It sounds like a baseball card stuck in the spoke of a kids bike. If anyone has any solutions for all the poor souls experiencing this please fill us in.  Other than that I love the truck and plan to drive this for another 100k.  

Push button 4x4 drive control was one of the worst thing that they did to 4x4 SUV's. It looks good on paper but they can be a pain as they age.  

Okay....about a foot of snow fell yesterday and this morning...Chicagoland area....I have this situation.  When in four wheel, I could take it easy and it stays in fine...when hard accleration with a left turn...BAM, it pops out of four wheel...then when im straight its back in...So i drive like a normal person in a foot of snow with four wheel and its fine...I'm thinkin I will deal with it now since it really isnt that big of a pain...though I know its not right.  A mechanic said next thing is to start replacing parts and that could be costly....no *** !!!!   Honestly...if it doesnt work like it did off the floor when new...there has to be something not working properly and or broke.  I see an '08 or '09 model truck in my future anyways!!   But does my problem ring any bells from anyone!!  

those trucks have an aluminum front diff. and cluthes in the transfer to keep the front driveshaft up to speed for shift on the fly and auto 4-wd. I have seen numerous of those with pinion bearings going bad(the whining noise problem). To address the kicking out problem I am kinda lost, but on some occassions I have seen the right output shaft in the front shaft dissengage and re-engage mainly when turning, to fix it you have to replace the circle clip on the out put shaft, that is a long shot though. there is also problems with front spider gears wearing, mainly on aggressive driver vehicles and avid wheelers. The only way I could know for sure is to look at it myself, but that probably won't happen since i work in Harrison, Arkansas Hope this helps a little..  
Build 'em, Wheel 'em, Break 'em, Fix 'em, what more could you ask for(oh yea MONEY)

Interesting!!  What type of disasemble is required to replace that clip...I'm going to research that more to find out...if it doesnt take too much to describe, let me know?!!   Thanks...anythings worth a shot...were getting blasted with another 6-10 right now in Chicago!    The spider gears you mentioned...is closer to what I think may be an issue.  Thanks for the input again!!  

sorry it takes so long for a reply but i have don't have a computer and go to my moms, kinda pathetic, but enough about me.  The circle clip is pretty easy just remove the c.v. axle, with it out of the way just strike the inside part of output shaft with a hammer and it should pop out. Other wise you may have to drop the front diff a little for the shaft to clear the frame. now that i told you that, look at your front diff they did make 2 models and only the one with a bolt in c.v. (5 or 6 bolts to the output shaft) will have this problem. The other style the c.v. slips in the diff like a front drive car. I work on too many to remember them all!!!  
Build 'em, Wheel 'em, Break 'em, Fix 'em, what more could you ask for(oh yea MONEY)

I have a 1998 chevy s10 Zr2 and My 4x4 switch is not getting power, i put the switch in another chevy 4x4 and it worked just fine. What could cause the switch to not get power, is it a sullinoid, or a power/ wiring issue. Nothing else in the truck has lost power and i have checked all my fuses.  HELP!!!  

i had the same problem with my zr2.  i took it to the dealership and they told me that the control cable was bad, 2 gears were bad, and the transfer case was shot.  luckily for me, it was all covered under warranty.  they fixed my truck and i thought i was ready to go.  the next time it snowed, i put my zr2 in 4 wheel drive and fish tailed all over the road.  i took it back to the dealership and it was not in 4 wheel at all.  they discovered that it was the vacuum hose that runs from the back to the front.  it was pinched, not creating a seal.  once they re-routed the vacuum seal, it works perfect.  

S-10 Crew Cab site
http://209.78.77.109/og1/crewcab.htm
Texas ZR2 site
http://www.txzr2.com/Midwest/html/txforum//index.php?s=34fc8343193f5f26925a13819fc44fe8&act=idx

If anyone here is not familiar with these sites check em out. Brule Lehman knows these trucks inside and out and without a doubt help on any of these issues. FYI try searching the threads before asking. You may find the answer right under your nose.

Billy  

We had the same problem with our 02 ZR2
It ended up being the Transfer Case Vacuum Lock-Out Hub Switch which costs about $20.00, Hope
this helps some one else with this problem, my truck is running like a champ again!