1/2 ton to 1 ton ujoints

I recentlye swapped out my d44 and 12 bolt 1/2 ton chevy axles out of my 78 blazer for 3/4 ton 8 lug d44 and 10.5 inc ff 14 bolt rear.  What kind of u joint do i need to allow 1/2 ton driveshaft to mate to 1 ton axles?  Where can i get them, at local parts stores or do i have to go to a 4x4 specialty shop?  
solid axle chevys cant be beat
78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires

NAPA can get you the cheater U-joint to adapt the two.  

What do you mean by "cheater" u joints?  So NAPA has them, thats cool there is one close by where i live.  
solid axle chevys cant be beat
78 K5: 350 V8,700r4,np208, 8 lug D44 4:88, 14 bolt 10.5 4:88 with detroit locker and 35 inc parenelli jones dirt grip tires

there's another name but I'm brain dead tonight.
universal-universal joint,lol anyway like GM1tonofFun said, you can get what you need at NAPA  
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see me at robsoffroad.com

They are called combination u-joint.  

well it looks like i'll be putting 1 ton rears in my half ton too so thats a good tip for me too. but wouldn't it be better if i got 1 ton driveshafts?  
STAND ON IT!!!

I good drive shaft shop could find or build you a solution.  

Before deciding on a drive shaft, check out www.driveshaftsuperstore.com and do some reading to help you decide what you want for a drive shaft.  Then once you know what you want decide where you want to buy from.  

I fail to see the need to buy a whole new drive shaft when existing one can be modified for less. I have had this done more than once over the years and never had any trouble with them and cheaper than new ones too.  

Have you ever even looked at that site snoman?  They offer parts on there too.  The point is for him to see what is available and plan what will work best for his truck.  Then he will better be able to decide what he wants and choose where to buy or have one redone.  Many times I think you fail to see the whole picture snoman.  

GM1tonOfFun:
Have you ever even looked at that site snoman?  They offer parts on there too.  The point is for him to see what is available and plan what will work best for his truck.  Then he will better be able to decide what he wants and choose where to buy or have one redone.  Many times I think you fail to see the whole picture snoman.

No I just look at picture differently than you. Many think you have to buy new for solutions when many of them can be solved locally if you just think about it a bit. I have a odd combo PTO drive shaft made for a old HD bush hog last year that to repair required two different sized bearing caps and spans on same ujoint spider to be able to salvage old shaft. It cost me 50 bucks to have a new yoke welded to drive shaft on one end (original replacement size is no longer available and holes were egged out in it a bit) and have a new Ujoint installed to match the two different ends. It would have cost me many times that amount to replace complete drive shaft and yokes on both ends to match it. The moral is do not run out to buy new when a good machine shop for repair or modify existing parts cheaper.  

GM1tonOfFun:
Have you ever even looked at that site snoman?  They offer parts on there too.  The point is for him to see what is available and plan what will work best for his truck.  Then he will better be able to decide what he wants and choose where to buy or have one redone.  Many times I think you fail to see the whole picture snoman.

SnoMan:
No I just look at picture differently than you. Many think you have to buy new for solutions when many of them can be solved locally if you just think about it a bit. I have a odd combo PTO drive shaft made for a old HD bush hog last year that to repair required two different sized bearing caps and spans on same ujoint spider to be able to salvage old shaft. It cost me 50 bucks to have a new yoke welded to drive shaft on one end (original replacement size is no longer available and holes were egged out in it a bit) and have a new Ujoint installed to match the two different ends. It would have cost me many times that amount to replace complete drive shaft and yokes on both ends to match it. The moral is do not run out to buy new when a good machine shop for repair or modify existing parts cheaper.

You still don't get it snoman.  You seem to think it is your way or no way.
I told him about that site so he could see what his options are, so he knows what is available.  It is his choice if he wants to buy a complete new drive shaft or just parts and have it made, whether he wants to do business with a specialty company over the internet or locally.  I used the word "buy" as being very general.  Do I have to spell everything out for you to understand it snoman.  I never told him what to buy or where to do business.  Again, that is his choice.  It would be a disservice to NOT let him know all his options.
You are very knowledgeable in certain areas snoman but, you are VERY closed minded.  I open my mind to ALL options before I choose the BEST way for the application.

Do you get it now snoman?  

i see your point GM. by checkin out whats available, i will learn what my options are and then i can choose to either buy or build. which i will probly build cuz there's a great machine shop that i deal with around me.  thanx for the tip!  
STAND ON IT!!!

chopperfreak2k1:
i see your point GM. by checkin out whats available, i will learn what my options are and then i can choose to either buy or build. which i will probly build cuz there's a great machine shop that i deal with around me.  thanx for the tip!

That is excellent chopper, glad to be of help.  

GM1tonOfFun:
Have you ever even looked at that site snoman?  They offer parts on there too.  The point is for him to see what is available and plan what will work best for his truck.  Then he will better be able to decide what he wants and choose where to buy or have one redone.  Many times I think you fail to see the whole picture snoman.

SnoMan:
No I just look at picture differently than you. Many think you have to buy new for solutions when many of them can be solved locally if you just think about it a bit. I have a odd combo PTO drive shaft made for a old HD bush hog last year that to repair required two different sized bearing caps and spans on same ujoint spider to be able to salvage old shaft. It cost me 50 bucks to have a new yoke welded to drive shaft on one end (original replacement size is no longer available and holes were egged out in it a bit) and have a new Ujoint installed to match the two different ends. It would have cost me many times that amount to replace complete drive shaft and yokes on both ends to match it. The moral is do not run out to buy new when a good machine shop for repair or modify existing parts cheaper.

GM1tonOfFun:
You still don't get it snoman.  You seem to think it is your way or no way.
I told him about that site so he could see what his options are, so he knows what is available.  It is his choice if he wants to buy a complete new drive shaft or just parts and have it made, whether he wants to do business with a specialty company over the internet or locally.  I used the word "buy" as being very general.  Do I have to spell everything out for you to understand it snoman.  I never told him what to buy or where to do business.  Again, that is his choice.  It would be a disservice to NOT let him know all his options.
You are very knowledgeable in certain areas snoman but, you are VERY closed minded.  I open my mind to ALL options before I choose the BEST way for the application.

Do you get it now snoman?

You are the one that does not get it here. First word out on this by others than me was look on line and buy parts when it should have been go to a local drive shaft machine shop were they build and balance drive shafts and ujoint matches are a way of life for them and explore your options before you try to sort it out on line. It is just like when I need a odd roller or ball bearing I go to a place near here that sells nothing but bearings of all kinds and styles. They do not care what it goes in as they match the bearing itself. Whether I needed a bearings for a 1954 tractor, a 4x4 or a salt spreader motor, they have never failed me and prices are good too and bearings always fit too.