Is anyone running Kaiser M-715 axles? And if anyone is how much wiil they hold up to? Tire size, horsepower, vehicle weight. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks  

It came with a D60 in front and a D70 in rear. How big a tire it can handle depends on vehicle they are on but those axle are not weak by design.  

Yea, you can run pretty much any tire/engine combo on these axles... within 'reason' though, I guess they wouldn't really like 54's with 1,000hp, but you know what I mean...  

Thanks for the help everyone Anymore info on the axles would be appreciated  About the motor and tires 6.6 liter 400 and 46 to 49 inch agricultural tires    


Thanks agin  

Whitetrashmudder.:
Thanks for the help everyone Anymore info on the axles would be appreciated  About the motor and tires 6.6 liter 400 and 46 to 49 inch agricultural tires    


Thanks agin

You are well beyond the safe capacity of those axle with those tires. Especially up front for what it is worth. I would say 38's to 40's is max reasonably safe limit up front on a full sized truck. You really are getting into Rockwell range here. A D70 up front and a D80 in rear would do a bit better short of Rockwells. It is not the engine, it is the tire size that is the problem.  

Ya i was kinda afrais of that The truck is a 48 Willys Ill look into other axles I was kinda worried about the size and weight Ill have to figure something out  

You're being ridiculous again, snoman. 38-40... People all over the country have been running 44's and larger on D60's for years. For that matter, the two competitors in this years TTC running paired D60's both ran 49" tires. And I don't suppose their engines are considered underpowered.
Sure, rockwells are awesome axles, but to claim he is "well beyond the safe capacity" of the D60 is ludicrous. Especially on a mudder.
Mudder, I have been running 450HP/550lb-ft through a locked D44 sporting 37's under an 8000lb Dodge for years. Yes, I managed to snap the front axle twice, but that was when I was brand new to the sport, and in some really rough Colorado rocks. And both times were actually u-joint failures. I've since replaced the weak factory u-joints, and replaced the two-piece shaft (required for the silly CAD) with a one piece moser. I've not broken anything since. And not because I stopped abusing the truck either.  

Dirty_Dog:
You're being ridiculous again, snoman. 38-40... People all over the country have been running 44's and larger on D60's for years. For that matter, the two competitors in this years TTC running paired D60's both ran 49" tires. And I don't suppose their engines are considered underpowered.
Sure, rockwells are awesome axles, but to claim he is "well beyond the safe capacity" of the D60 is ludicrous. Especially on a mudder.
Mudder, I have been running 450HP/550lb-ft through a locked D44 sporting 37's under an 8000lb Dodge for years. Yes, I managed to snap the front axle twice, but that was when I was brand new to the sport, and in some really rough Colorado rocks. And both times were actually u-joint failures. I've since replaced the weak factory u-joints, and replaced the two-piece shaft (required for the silly CAD) with a one piece moser. I've not broken anything since. And not because I stopped abusing the truck either.

The one being ridiculous here is you. Several factor determine the same tire size on a axle and vehicle size and weight is one of them. I do not doubt that there is fools getting by with light axles and big tires but they are playing with fire. I do not look at this from a ego stand point like many do but rather from a design and engineering aspect. You need to no only factor in axle shaft size but the added strain the big tires place on housing too which many seem to ignore. When I "rate" a axle max size I suggest a limit that is not likely to break 99% or the time. Sure you can push it further like you suggest but then when it breaks in the wrong place and the wrong time you are kinda screwed. I tend to be conservative in my rating and guess what in over 35 years of doing this I have never broken a axle or drive shaft off roading and it was not because I did not play hard at time but rather because I made sure that I had the right combo of axles and gears for vehicle and tires being used. Some may think it is a "badge of honor" to break down on trail while myself I can skip that merit badge and build it so it does not break 99.9% of the time. (not breaking it does not mean you do not play hard but rather that you built it right) To me you see, being as "bulletproof" as possible and getting there and back is more important than looks or ego. I stand by my tires size rating for him because I am comfortable with it and you are not going to pay his repairs when he breaks down with 46's on those axle. The 5.38's that those axle came with would play well with 38's or so and be lacking with 46's anyway too. The suggested Rockwells for 46's have a 6.72 ratio which are a better match drive ratio wise as well as strength.  

Yes yes, we know. You claim not to be talking out of your ego, while at the same time claiming that you are right, and hundreds (thousnds?) of people who have been running 44's and larger on D60's for years are alllll wrong.
Nope, does not sound like your ego is involved at all.
As for gears, you do know that most of us change them, right?  

Like I said, some push the envelope but the physics remain. With say 44's on a D60, the strain on the axles is increased about 50% to produce the SAME tractive ground effort as with stock 30's. Next time you do this, BEFORE you install bigger tires, remove and clean axles and paint a line down them and then reinstall the axles and your 44's and run them hard for a while and then pull axles and inspect the lines and you will find that axles have twisted. Note, when a axle twists because it has reached its yield, it tensile strength is reduced about 10% permanently (or until it is re-heat treat) I have seen D60 axle broken with 36 and 38's and lockers as locker and strain to axles. There is a mind set with people such as you that when you lift a truck and install big tires that it is now heavy duty when in fact it is weaker than before unless axles have been upgraded too. Then on the axle gear ratio thing, more do not change axle ratio than do because they are either too cheap to do it, do not think is makes any difference in power or performance or they think that a magic air filter and dual exhausts is going to fix it (never mined that dual exhaust actually reduce lower RPM torque and for reasons you likely cannot even begin to understand) They also never remotely consider the added strain these mods place on drive train if they do not regear and blame tranny or other parts when they fail not because they have pushed it beyond design limits nased on current configuration. There is two classes of 4x4 ers, one (that you are a member of) that install tires and lifts on stock parts and gear ratios and think their 4x4 is bad and then their are those such as myself that consider the gains and losses with every mod and either properly adjusts the design strength for them or does not do the mod (ie lift and tires) until they can beef up hardware and axle ratios. There is the right way and wrong way to do this for the best possible and most reliable wheeling and I subscribe to the best way and you seem to favor the easy and cheaper way and "hope" it holds together. If you want to do things your way fine as you have to live with them but do not try to sell others on what a great idea it is or that it is structurally sound when it is indeed not.  

Yes, I know, as usual, you're convinced that you're right and the rest of the world is wrong. Talk about ego....
And your description of me could not be farther from the truth. If you can find anythign stock on my Wrangler other than the frame, I will be suprised. And while the Dodge does still have the factory axle tubes, there's certainly nothing else left stock.  

Dirty_Dog:
Yes, I know, as usual, you're convinced that you're right and the rest of the world is wrong. Talk about ego....
And your description of me could not be farther from the truth. If you can find anythign stock on my Wrangler other than the frame, I will be suprised. And while the Dodge does still have the factory axle tubes, there's certainly nothing else left stock.

Yes there is your world that ignore the physics involved and then the real world.  It is no surprise that you always try to side step things when simple physics gets in the picture. I build thing to last not with rubber bands and duck tape.  

I think axle strength can be argued until the end of time. Often with both sides having very good points. A lot of people have said that dana 44's are weak and to some degree they are probably right. We often assume that when an axle is mentioned it has the same strength as it had when it was new (I'm thinking the last front dana 44 (real 44 not that 44 with 30 outers)from a factory rig is at least 20 years old). Also who set it up. There a bunch of yahoo's out there who say they can set up gears, yet they don't even know what a case spreader is. There is a reason they make those shims so thin. Then there is driving style. There are guys out there who can break an anvil in a sandbox and others who can run across rice paper without leaving a trace. So we pretty much know what axles are stronger than which. We just have to come up with a usage chart. Just my 2 cents.
Lator....  

Every axle can have its design limits exceeded, even with upgraded parts, regardless the tire size.  The bigger the tire, the greater the stress is on the axle.  The lockers that we all know we need for traction puts extra stress on the axle shafts.  The weight of the vehical has to be considered as well.  Different terrain will have to be factored in also.  On a Dana 60/70 combo I would not be affraid of 38's with stock axle shafts (with driving finesse), and with alloy axle shafts and better u-joints of your choice I would not be affaid of 44's.  Yes, there will be greater stress.  But here is a very important factor to consider; driving style will have a greater determining factor of breaking or not.  Know the limits of all the parts on your truck and drive to not exceed them; and knowing how different terrain and traction affects the stress on the axles.  

Everyone seems to worry about axle shaft and nobody seems to consider axle housing and knuckle strength too. Sure you can put stronger axles in a front drive axle but you sill have same housing and GM is known for using thinner axle tubes in a lot of applications vs say Jeep or Scout.