swap an s10 4 cyl. for eclipse turbo engine... ever been done?

i'd like to swap out my stock 4 cyl. s10 engine for an eclipse 4 cylinder turbo engine. i would put in a 350 but i hear its a lot of work and gas mileage would be eatin up. ive done some research on the net and haven't been able to find anything or anyone who has done it before. so anything would help really.  

thats blasphemy!!!! you don't put *** in american especially mistubishi. if you want import power go to toyota and dont disgrace american!!!!!  
IT WASNT ME, IT WAS THE ONE ARMED MAN!

Even a 4.3 V6 would be a lot easy transplant and would give a big power boost without as big a MPG hit as a 350.  

hey keithpapa... i didnt ask for your views on domestic or import... if you dont have anything to answer my question dont talk  

It can be done. Pretty much any swap can be done, if you have the skills.
But why would you want to? Trucks need low end torque. That engine does not have any. And of course, it would be totally illegal.
You'd be better off swapping in a 4.3L chevy. Or a 350. A V8 does not have to mean poor mileage. Properly built, a V8 can get good mileage. My TA sports a 700HP supercharged 383 LT1 stroker. And it gets better than 20 MPG cruising at 80-90MPH, as long as I am moderate in my use of the loud pedal. A strong engine in a light vehicle doesn't really have to work, therefore it requires less throttle to achieve the same speed.  

BTW, the bolt pattern on that engine is shared with 2.8, 3.1 and 3.4 so a 3.4 would bolt in pretty easy and give you very a noticeable power boost with little fuss and give you a lot more usable low RPM torque too which is something that the other swap will not do.  

Dirty_Dog:
It can be done. Pretty much any swap can be done, if you have the skills.
But why would you want to? Trucks need low end torque. That engine does not have any. And of course, it would be totally illegal.
You'd be better off swapping in a 4.3L chevy. Or a 350. A V8 does not have to mean poor mileage. Properly built, a V8 can get good mileage. My TA sports a 700HP supercharged 383 LT1 stroker. And it gets better than 20 MPG cruising at 80-90MPH, as long as I am moderate in my use of the loud pedal. A strong engine in a light vehicle doesn't really have to work, therefore it requires less throttle to achieve the same speed.

This is really getting "deep" to suggest 20 MPG at 80 or 90 MPH with that setup. To do so you would have to be able to cruise on about 40 to 50 rear wheel HP and have 30% or better engine efficiency and low drive line losses too to achieve this. This is not going to happen here. BTW, while your theory on less throttle with a bigger engine is somewhat true, a engine gets its power for fuel consumed and it take power to get you down the road and what gives best MPG is a engine properly size for load and that can operate efficiently for load it is carrying. A bigger engine has more reserve power but has higher pumping losses to so you balance engine size with load for best MPG and fuel octane as well to compression ratio being used.  

I think I know how to check mileage. The engine in the TA sacrifices some high end power for the sake of better efficiency when it's NOT under full throttle. Primarily in the area of static CR. For max power, a supercharged engine uses low static CR (which means lower part-throttle power) and high boost. Mine runs 10:1 static CR and only 9 lbs of boost (manifold boost, it's 12 lbs before the intercooler). 91 octane fuel, an LT4 knock sensor and boost retard, 3.73:1 gears, a 4L65-E, low drag CE and a low weight vehicle.
It's not a snowplow, so I don't expect you to understand.  

The BS is really getting deep here. 10 to 1 CR with 9 PSI will not make it on 91 octane, that is in 100 octane avgas or racing fuel territory. If you are running 91 you are severely retarding spark at times to do it and efficiency goes out window with it along with 700 HP claim too Further more it has nothing to do with snowplows but rather physics. Drag increases a lot with speed and if you had said 60 or 65 I might have bought it but not 80 or 90. I used to race engines long ago on pump gas, racing fuel  and alchol too and know them well and what to expect and what you need. If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it is one plain and simple. I put you claims on this with magic 45 MPG carbs and other smoke and mirrors. You might ignore the physics involved here but that does not render them moot.

BTW, to double HP with a blower you need about 15 to 16 PSI boost and lower compression too to prevent engine destruction and 100 or better octane fuel. The first two rules of serious boosting is lower CR's and very high octane fuels.  

LOL Just keep saying it, maybe you'll convince yourself. Talk to someone who knows how to build MODERN engines, not the 1950's vintage stuff you still rely on.  

Yes I should waste my time with you because you think you do understand but you do not. I comment because I do not like seeing someone giving improper advise on the subject. BTW, they have been super charging gas engines since late 30's particularly on aircraft and they had to be able to run full boost and last and not just a 5 sec burst. Back then they had 110 octane fuel too The theories they work on has not changed. Detonation is the single biggest enemy of a blown engine as it can wipe a engine out in a heart beat under boost. Your claims of 700 HP holds no water with your setup just like your 90 MPH MPG. Your lack of true understanding on this subject shows. In your case just because you buy the parts it does not make you a expert because if you were knowledgeable at all you would know that first 9 PSI would not give 700 HP, second 91 octane would not cut it with that boost and CR unless you severely retard spark under boost which would also reduce power from boost too. With your setup I serious doubt that it even makes 500 HP on a dyno. Sure people get 700 real HP and more out of a SB with a super but they are not running 9 PSI or 91 octane either.  

You clearly do not understand the physics involved anywhere near as well as you would like people to believe.
The 2008 Corvette, rated at 430HP, is rated at 26MPG highway. I get 20 or so. Yes, I make considerably more peak power. But that is under boost, not cruising. Yes, boosted motors suck gas. But apparently, despite your self-declared omnipotence, you've forgotten that blowers DO NOTHING except under heavy throttle. There is no boost when crusing. And 20MPG out of a modern engine with an OD transmission and highway gears is no big deal.  

If anyone does not understand the physics involved here its you. First the EPA highway MPG test rating is a shame. The average speed for this test is 48 and top speed is 59 and they are allowed to take up to 30 seconds to reach top speed too. NOBODY drives like that. Next 20 MPG at 90 MPG in a big car is a big deal and very far fetched. ALso I well know that boost is not there when you foot is not in it but your claims of 700 HP with stock compression and 9 PSI boost and 91 octant is BS plain and simple. You will need more a lot more than 9 PSI and 100 octane avgas or racing fuel too. (this is why seriously boosted engine have lower CR's to prevent destruction from detonation with available fuels.  

pay no mind to the old man, I have a bone stock 82 corvette stingray with the crossfire injection that gets over 20mpg and my turbo charged 5300 pound 75 blazer that does 1/4 miles everytime @13.99 with 3:08 gears, gets 16mpg, probably better if I could drive it without sounding off the pipe. I know where you're coming from.  
obviously our gear ratios match our power/RPM ranges, we don't substitute power for low gearing.
I don't need a snoplow to get where i'm going, I have big tires. lol.  
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this forum is a funny farm  
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